Greg Miesch looks back, forward at The Homestead

By Ross Boissoneau

Sun contributor

Chef Greg Miesch knew he had a lot to learn. Despite decades in the hospitality industry, taking the reins of the culinary department as senior manager of Food & Beverage at The Homestead was different than anything he’d done before.

It was a challenge he was eager to take on, but he wanted to make sure he understood what worked and what didn’t before he made any big changes. “I didn’t know how a resort of this size truly functioned,” he says. “I didn’t think it was good to go in (and make changes) when I didn’t know what worked.”

Now, after a summer spent studying the ins and outs of the resort, he’s looking ahead. That look ahead actually started last month, when he was able to open Nonna’s Ristorante, which features classically-inspired contemporary Italian cuisine.

Miesch’s background includes work in both the front and back of the house. Following studies at Art Institute of Chicago’s School of Culinary he worked with both a corporate sommelier and The International Sommeliers Guild. He went on to head Fion Wine & Spirits in Chicago, 25-seat bar featuring small production wine and spirits, as well as monthly coursed-pairing dinners which he planned and executed.

In 2017, he moved to Bloomington, Ill., to work at Epiphany Farms Hospitality Group, where he oversaw larger programs and groups of employees. It was also there that he had his first chance to open a restaurant. He followed that with a move to Lexington, Ill., to start a new destination restaurant, Lexington Social, a 50-seat French-inspired bistro located inside a renovated train depot. He split his time between the kitchen, bar, and managing the restaurant.

In 2021, Miesch moved back to his home state of Michigan, where he cooked in several restaurants as well as a few event companies dedicated to small, high-end private dining experiences.

All of this prepared him for The Homestead. Sort of. He’d never worked at a property the size of The Homestead, with what amounts to seven affiliated eateries, including three at the beach, Manitou Passage Golf Club, Whiskers, Cavanaugh’s and the resort’s flagship restaurant, Nonna’s. He’s also ostensibly in charge of the resort’s banquet service, though he says he relied completely on the staff already in place to prepare food for the various weddings, receptions and other special events the resort hosts.

His first big challenge was Cavanaugh’s, which demanded more of his energy and attention than he’d anticipated. “I’d never built out a grocerant,” he says. Part grocery, part deli, part pizzeria, it sells ready-made sandwiches, snacks, and whatever guests need in a pinch, Miesch says. That included everything from insect repellent and shaving cream to playing cards and handy groceries.

At the same time, he had to ready the other outlets for the summer, including hiring staff. He was able to get Whiskers, the resort’s indoor-outdoor pub-type restaurant, going without too much trouble. He left things mostly in place at Manitou Passage.

Rather than immediately take on revamping and staffing Nonna’s, he made sure service was restored at the beachside outlets. While he didn’t open the window at poolside, he was able to hire staff and opened both the bar and Café Manitou.

As with virtually every other business in the region, finding enough quality staff has been a challenge. “Hiring has proven to be a bit more difficult than I originally imagined, but we’ve managed to get our hands on a core group of year-round people that share the same ideals as far as quality of service and food are concerned.” Miesch also makes sure to praise the temporary workers at the resort for their skill and dedication. “The Jamaican workers are some of the most amazing people you will ever meet. They’re kind-hearted, hardworking, and … always in a good mood.”

To his surprise, Miesch also found himself heavily involved in the resurrected Music on the Mountain, the outdoor concert series at the top of the resort’s ski hill. He was dealing with contracts with the artists and securing and promoting food and beverages for sale adjacent to the venue atop Bay Mountain.

It was a lot.

With the post-Labor Day closure of the beachside bar and Café Manitou, Miesch was finally able to turn his attention and staff to Nonna’s. Its Sept. 18 reopening coincided with the last Music on the Mountain concert. Both were well attended, resulting in one of those problems that are good to have: the nearby parking lots were all full. The restaurant, known for its intimate dining experience and classic fare, is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, and Miesch is experimenting with Sunday service as well.

Miesch is already planning for next year. “There are so many different possibilities,” he says. At Café Manitou, he will be revamping the bistro menu and leaning more into seafood. That’s one of the more obvious examples, but he says, “All the menus will be modified.”

He wants to both modernize the offerings while remaining true to what The Homestead has been known for. It’s a delicate balancing act, and he says he is taking into consideration the comments from both customers and those who work at the resort and the restaurant, many of whom have been there 20 years or more. “There’s a lot of nostalgia at The Homestead. I want to make sure it makes sense to the guests and staff.”

While summer is over, ski season is on the horizon. Miesch says he will be looking at revving up CQ’s, the buffet restaurant that is adjacent to and part of Cavanaugh’s.

It’s all part of a process, learning about the resort, its culture, and what he can bring to the table, literally and figuratively. “I didn’t want to make any rash decisions. A huge priority for me from the start has been to establish the foundation for an excellent restaurant and service culture, both with the staff and guests,” says Miesch.

Overall, he’s pleased with what he and the staff accomplished in his first summer, and he’s looking forward to more. “This first few months for me was all about watching, listening and learning. We’ve made a few small changes, tweaks here and there, but nothing major,” he says. “I never really foresaw much of that happening until next season, after I have a more thorough understanding of what’s worked in the past, what hasn’t, and why.”