Coldwater kayaking not a hot idea
By Linda Alice Dewey and Jacob Wheeler
Sun contributors
Thinking of taking your kayak or canoe from Sleeping Bear Point to South Manitou Island? Think again.
The air temperature may reach a balmy 80 degrees, and the surface water temperature near the beach is slowly approaching swimmable levels. But the open water temperature out in the Manitou Passage never reaches the 60s. That’s frigid. And it can kill you.
Two years ago, an 8-year-old boy from Ann Arbor died of hypothermia, on July 1, when the canoe he and his father were in capsized in choppy water one mile off Sleeping Bear Point. His father survived. Both were wearing life jackets, but the boy died in the 55-degree water.
Elsewhere in Leelanau County, at least two other swimmers have died in recent years, in part because they underestimated how deadly Lake Michigan can be. There’s a reason that an underwater graveyard of ships and sailors’ ghosts marks the Manitou Passage.
The great lake is even colder this year, following a frigid winter that left ice cover until late spring. All these signs point to exercising extreme caution when, or abstaining from, attempting to paddle to the Manitou Islands — picturesque and close though they may seem from the shoreline.
We asked law enforcement officials, emergency responders, the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and a local watersport outfitter for their advice on how to avoid tragedy on the big lake, and what role they play in responding to distress calls.
Matt Wiesen, Crystal River Outfitters: “It is important to always respect a large body of water such as Lake Michigan. Especially with the ever changing weather conditions, including currents, wind, and water temperatures. Crystal River Outfitters rents kayaks and stand-up paddleboards on Lake Michigan but has a strict policy of advising renters to stay within 200 feet of the shoreline at all times and to NEVER attempt paddling to the Manitou Islands.”
John Dodson, Glen Arbor Fire Chief: “I have noticed a notable increase (in paddlers on Lake Michigan). This is a popular place and growing more popular. There are approximately 3-5 emergency calls per summer. We respond all the way from Northport down to the Benzie County border, if there’s a need.”
“There are sea kayaks and river kayaks. Taking a river kayak out on Lake Michigan is not a good idea. Sea kayaks have pedals and a rudder and outriggers to keep you upright. In the river, you follow the current. You are more or less paddling to keep your momentum. Out in the middle of the lake, it takes a lot more work. If you get sideways and the wind comes around the point, you’re gonna get pitched over. You’ve got to be strong.”
Charlie Belanger, Leelanau Marine Patrol Commander: “Unless you’re an experienced kayaker, I’d avoid Lake Michigan — this time of year in particular. The currents that move through the Manitou Passage, because of the islands, move in various and unpredictable wave patterns. Oftentimes they collide with each other. It does make boating in a small boat difficult. We find that even experienced river kayakers have difficulty out on the big water.”
“If you go over, you’ll be out of luck in a very quick time. Yes, the surface water sometimes gets up to the 60s, but that’s only the top foot. Out in the lake, if you’re immersed in the water, the rest of your torso is hanging down in the cold water that never warms up.”
“The Coast Guard has a 1-10-1 principle. Stage 1 in cold water is shock stage. You have 1 minute to get your breathing under control. The water temperature right now is in the mid-40s. Stage 2 you’ve got 10 minutes of meaningful movement. Stage 3 you’re in hypothermia. Muscle movement, talking and breathing becomes difficult. Hypothermia at stage 3 you’ve got one hour before you lose consciousness. … All of this is true is true only if you’re wearing personal flotation device. If not, we’re talking only one or two minutes.”
“We did 22 search & rescue missions last summer on Lake Michigan, West Grand Traverse Bay and on our inland lakes. Six of those search and rescue missions were in the Manitou Passage — launched almost exclusively out of Leland. The chances of being seen and rescued this time of year are poor. Occasionally people are arrogant. They think they have experience and can handle water, and anything that comes at them. Most other cases are just ignorance. They’re not from an area where we have big water. They’re used to boating in inland conditions.”
“People should file a float plan. Tell someone exactly when they’re leaving, and planning to return, so someone expects them. We recommend they carry cell phones that are properly charged. They know they can call 911. If they are in an emergency situation, that’s the first call they make. The GPS function on their cell phone must be enabled.
If someone calls 911 and says they’re in trouble, they dispatch everyone: the Coast Guard (out of Frankfort), sheriff deputies, a road officer is sent to the nearest land point to spot people with binoculars. The National Park is notified. During boating season we have our marine patrol, boats stationed in Leland and a boat in Grand Traverse Bay, in Suttons Bay.”
Phil Akers, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore: “Who gets called depends on the situation. If we have a boat in the water and are in the area, we’ll head out. We have two patrol boats that rangers use. One is kept in Leland, one on South Manitou.”
“At our front desk (at the Visitor Center in Empire) we direct folks to our website. We do what we can to educate folks. Hopefully folks use common sense. Right now it’s only about 40 degrees. If you’re not dressed properly and go in the water, you might only last 20 minutes or so.”
“Folks need to be prepared. They need to have the experience of paddling on open water. They need proper equipment and a proper kayak — not just a recreational river kayak. They need water skirts, and a communication device or hand-held marine radio. And they need to really watch the weather. Be cognizant of wind direction and speed. Stick as close to the coastline as possible. We don’t recommend paddling out to the islands unless they’re really experienced.”
