Ugly Tomato market offers Pure Leelanau experience
By Stephanie Purifoy
Sun contributor
The 18 x 34 foot Ugly Tomato market and gift shop on the corner of M-22 and Lake Street seems almost lost in the madness of downtown Glen Arbor. Most summer afternoons it sits idle, both doors open, welcoming the summer breeze. But the place is anything but calm. The miniscule shop withstands frequent and intense rushes of customers. The rising sun brings a surge of people, eager to get their hands on still-warm pastries and confections. Afternoons attract a steady trickle of both locals, who rely on the shop for produce, and tourists who are often surprised to find such a concentration of local goods in one store. From the chipmunk named Alvin, who demands chopped pecans by the handful, to the witty t-shirts and signs, the Ugly Tomato might be small but it oozes character. It is this sort of quirkiness that draws in curious first-timers and seasoned locals over and over again.
The Ugly Tomato sits in the space once occupied by Barb’s Bakery — Barb Richardson’s popular baked goods market that emitted delicious early-morning smells throughout Glen Arbor. When Richardson hung up the apron in 2009, the absence left a hunger in many people’s stomachs. The Ugly Tomato to the rescue.
Bill Walters’ business started in 2006 as a small shop next to what was then Michigan Traders across M-22 from Little Traverse Lake between Glen Arbor and Leland. In the early days Walters struggled with a name. He finally settled on the Ugly Tomato “because [the heirloom tomatoes] are very contorted and don’t look all nice and uniform,” says Walters. Heirloom tomatoes are known for their flavor but not their visual appeal, and the Walters family has been growing them for years. Walters also chose the name because he knew it would stand apart from the other small businesses in the area. It helps to have a memorable name. Business has soared since 2006, and in 2013 it morphed into the small, unconventional store in Glen Arbor. Tomatoes made the shop what it is today but the Ugly Tomato is more than what it was four years ago. The company itself has evolved to include apparel and other products from Pure Leelanau — another Walters brainchild. Pies and other baked goods have drawn many costumers.
The goods are baked directly in the shop, requiring a baker to come in before 6 almost every morning. World famous and locally made Moomer’s ice cream was also added, drawing more consumers of all ages. It is rare to see a small, independent business expand from only a couple of goods but the Ugly Tomato hosts much of what makes the Leelanau summer experience. This includes ice cream, baked goods, various fruits and vegetables, t-shirts, artwork and — of course — tomatoes. And they are all local. Every single product comes from Walters’ family farm or local farms in the county. Walters hopes to include and endorse all types of local products with a Pure Leelanau “seal of excellence” that would be affixed to small, local produce brands. “There are a lot of people doing unique little things,” says Walters. His ultimate daily goal is to give visitors and tourists a taste of Leelanau. “If you can leave them with a good impression of the county, whether its comradery or whether it’s a good product or some kind of happy feeling, they will come back and talk about it,” says Walters.
The Walters’ farm, on Good Harbor Trail near Sugar Loaf, started in the 1850s when his ancestors made the trek from Prussia to Leelanau County. Since then the farm has remained in the family. Bill Walters grew up on the land and now owns it. “It’s really a tranquilizing experience,” Walters says, “walking the footprints of your grandparents and great-grandparents.” The land is now a quiet place for family gatherings, away from the rush of summertime Leelanau. This is where all of the heirloom tomatoes are grown and harvested. Walters continues to be fascinated by the job. “I think just meeting all of the interesting people who appreciate good locally sourced products has been the best part,” Walters says. Visitors to the Ugly Tomato come from all over the world and speak many languages. In the shop at the M-22 Market a map was placed on the wall and costumers were asked to put a pin on their hometown. After five years, nearly every country had at least a couple of pins. The map serves as a great visual to represent northern Michigan’s popularity worldwide.
When Walters was searching for a new location for the Ugly Tomato, he recruited a friend, Karl Johnston, to help him with his endeavor. Johnston had recently gone into retirement after owning the Western Avenue Grill. But he wasn’t quite ready for the life of a retiree and found himself overcome with boredom. So when Johnston ran into Walters at a store and mentioned his longing for action, the tomato grower was happy to invite him along on the adventure. Johnston and Walters now spend most of their days in the shop, interacting with the hundreds of fascinating individuals who wander through the door.
The future looks bright for the Ugly Tomato. Walters foresees a second store and possibly a third in Traverse City. He knows that the Pure Leelanau idea has miles of potential, and he wants to take it as far as he can. Cherries, wine, ice cream and beautiful scenery has put this region on the map and The Ugly Tomato has managed to capture all of this in a unique store. This is concentrated Leelanau, designed to give tourists a taste of the culture and locals a taste of home.
