Bardenhagen’s farm stand worth a stop

By Rebecca Gearing Carlson

Sun contributor

Part of our series on local farm stands in Leelanau County.

What are the little purple, pink, yellow, and ruby red balls found on the corners of the roads throughout the peninsula this time of year? Spilled cherries. Big trucks and small trucks hauling tanks of freshly harvested cherries are everywhere. It’s July and this means it’s cherry season.

For all of us following or waiting behind these trucks carrying tanks with water spilling over the sides, it is a good reminder to be a little more patient while driving in the area. These hardworking farmers are doing their best to harvest and deliver the delicious stone fruit to processors as quickly as possible. Most local farm stands are bursting with colorful displays of all cherry varieties, usually picked the same day they are stocked. One such place in the Leelanau Peninsula that is an essential stop for any farm stand devotee is the Bardenhagen Farms farm stand located at 7881 Pertner Road.

With two sesquicentennial farms in the Leelanau Peninsula, the Bardenhagen Families are valuable growers and custodians of the land. Bardenhagen Berries-Homestead Hill located on Horn Road is currently owned and maintained by Steve and Pam Bardenhagen. They are nephew and niece to Bardenhagen Farms owners Jim and Jan Bardenhagen, located on Pertner Road. Aside from following environmentally approved and sustainable farming practices, both Jim and Jan Bardenhagen, along with brother Gary and his partner Christi Bardenhagen, donated acreage from their respective farms on Horn and Pertner roads to the Leelanau Conservancy which protects farmland into perpetuity. Conservancy executive director Tom Nelson noted in 2008 “[I]t’s truly been an honor working with these growers who are absolutely committed to doing their part to ensure that our agricultural heritage lives on in Leelanau” (leelanauconservancy.org). With farmland being sold at a premium price, it is all the more remarkable that the Bardenhagen brothers, Gary and Jim, set aside agricultural land that is protected from development for future generations.

The original Bardenhagen farmstead along Pertner Road, dating back to the 1870s, consisted of around 200 acres growing potatoes, cauliflower, strawberries, as well as grains for feed and cattle. It is under Gary and Jim’s grandfather, Elmer Bardenhagen, that the family raises dairy cattle producing both cream and milk for customers in the local area. Jim shared a story of his grandfather’s dairy delivery days. Around the 1930s and 1940s, Elmer used a wagon pulled by horses to make his milk and cream deliveries to the surrounding towns. Even in winter, Elmer loaded his wagon and crossed a potentially hazardous frozen Lake Leelanau to deliver milk and cream to the residents of Leland. According to Jim, who grew up milking the cows before and after school, the dairy cattle remained on the Bardenhagen farm until around the 1960s.

As the former Leelanau County Michigan State University (MSU) Extension Director for more than twenty years, Jim Bardenhagen remains active in the local farming community while still working long days on the now 80-acre family farm. Working full-time as the Extension Director, Jim explained the balance of work and farming life was challenging but rewarding. “I only had nights and weekends to farm.” Even with his time limitations, Jim worked diligently to set Bardenhagen Farms up for success into the future. Through his work as Extension Director, he created and implemented sustainable practices for crops, rotation, and land use. Benefiting future farming generations, Jim also allows research to be performed on the farm by the Leelanau County MSU Extension scientists. He is also responsible for developing the “Farmers Markets we all know today” in the Leelanau Peninsula. These markets offered farmers another retail outlet in bringing their abundant produce to a wider audience as well as creating an additional revenue stream.

The Bardenhagen Farms farm stand, which began selling products in 2014, has a loyal following. The permanent structure farm stand sits along Pertner road directly in front of the century old Bardenhagen farm house. The self-serve farm stand is generally open from July through November. Jim noted that the first offerings in 2014 were “Balaton cherries and potatoes.” Since that time, the fruit products have expanded into apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, “Mars” seedless table grapes, and several varieties of apples. While Jim’s favorite fruit recipe is Jan’s Apple Crisp, the recipe can be found at their website (bardenhagenfarms.com), he said the peach cobbler and the “cherry pie for [his] birthday” were close seconds. Personally, I am waiting on the text from my fellow farm stand disciples: “apricots at Bardenhagens.”

Bardenhagen Farms is also a committed participant in the local, year around MI Farm Co-op which offers consumers the opportunity to purchase locally produced, fresh food options. As current president of the co-op, Jim explained his farm’s participation in this Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program, sometimes referred to as crop sharing, is one of twenty-five other Leelanau Peninsula farms. Additionally, he offered there is room for more farm producers to join.

With the MI Farm Co-op, food options are expanded by the number of participating farms versus only purchasing a membership from a single farm. These programs support local, small farmers while offering healthy, fresher food options for families. Also, members of the co-op can purchase seasonal memberships.

According to Jim, the benefits to both the farmer and consumer are numerous. Jim explained, participation in the Co-op and CSA allow “the farmer to reach the consumer directly, the consumer is purchasing local, sustainable products, and the farmer is earning a fair wage versus selling retail.” Another advantage to both farmer and consumer is that a relationship develops. Anyone interested in becoming members of this co-op can visit the website mifarmcoop.localfoodmarketplace.com. MI Farm Co-op offerings range from locally raised and farmed beef, pork, chicken, and lamb products, fresh cut flowers, eggs, seasonally available fruits and vegetables, greens, maple syrup, and more.

What are the future plans for Bardenhagen Farms? “Keep growing the farm stand and the co-op,” Jim said, as well as turning a portion of land to hay. He explained that a former cherry orchard area has been converted to a hay crop for horse and buffalo, a grass-alfalfa mix. This new crop offers a “higher paying market.” Furthermore, Jim suggested the importance of adapting his current crops and varietals “to meet the weather challenges.” He will continue to work with MSU Extension on the farm allowing them to conduct further research in various capacities. Lastly, Jim emphasized the importance of having a “presence in the community.” He and Jan will continue to work hard to keep Bardenhagen Farms visible and active in Leelanau County.

Tom Nelson of the Leelanau Conservancy expressed his admiration for farmers like Jim and Jan Bardenhagen who are stalwart in their efforts to preserve and protect the land. “They represent a seed that has been planted, and with a lot of hard work, will bear fruit in helping to keep farming alive and retaining our great farm families as an integral part of the fabric of…Leelanau County” (leelanauconservancy.org). The stewardship practices of this hard-working couple serves as an example to everyone.

Finally, as a gentle reminder, when driving down any of the roads in Leelanau County, especially in the next few weeks, it is highly likely drivers will approach some form of farm equipment driving on the side of the road. As any of us approach the cherry shaker hugging the shoulder at a slow speed on their way to the next orchard, just remember this person is performing a service that benefits everyone. The cherry harvest only lasts a short time each year, and we can all be more understanding as these men and women driving the harvesting equipment support their livelihoods.