Remembering Archie Miller
Photo of Archie Miller by Minnie Wabanimkee
Story by Gabriele Shaw
Sun contributor
Part of our series on the living legacy of Native Americans in Leelanau County.
The Manitou Islands—splitting the waters in the Manitou Passage—embody pristine isolation, and are a place to be in solitary nature.
Today, few residents, and even fewer visitors to the area, would ever suspect that at one time the Manitous boasted a booming population. Aside from post offices, hotels, wharves, docks, fishing and agricultural enterprises, there was a railroad on North Manitou!
At a time when snowshoe priests were thrashing through the frozen cedar swamps of the Upper Peninsula, the interior of both Michigan peninsulas was a wilderness. The long stretches of open water in the Great Lakes made the earliest exploration most feasible by boat, and the Manitous were ideally located between Chicago and Rogers City—perfect for restocking vessels with firewood, fresh water, fish and venison. In time, thriving communities grew up around the docks and lumber camps; churches, schools, hotels and the lighthouses were built and food production was set up, with grain, fruit and fish exported to the mainland. The agricultural research department of Michigan State University used South Manitou for the isolated production of pure Rosen Rye seed. The seed was sent to farmers all over the Plains states, and was, in-part, responsible for the Dust Bowl.
By the 1950s, the population had declined sharply. Nonetheless, the Manitous’ placement in the straits made the lighthouses vital to safe shipping. At this time, both North and South Manitou were almost exclusively privately-owned. South Manitou had more people: a few homesteaders and a small store for tourists. The lighthouse, as well as many other structures and docks, had to be maintained and looked after. Lumbering was still a source of income for those with ships to move timber. On North Manitou, deer hunters from Detroit, Chicago, and beyond were guided to the plentiful game during hunting season. In the wake of the human exodus, however, the deer population exploded to unsustainable numbers. With no predators and limited food, hard winters often found them starving to death. In the early 1960s, North Manitou looked like a manicured park—every scrap of foliage up to the height the deer could reach, stretching on their hind legs, was gone. They were even starting to manifest signs of island dwarfism.
Archie Miller, a cantankerous Mack truck of a man who would walk calmly past the “No Indians” sign in the Hotel Northern, spent decades of his life in the Manitou Straits. He was a caretaker of the lighthouse, a lumberjack and one of the most sought-after hunting and fishing guides. Miller lumbered with his brother Ivan in the early years, hauling big timber to the beach for shipping. Hunting and fishing was good, especially the bass fishing on Lake Florence on the south island. He talked of harsh winters, of stuffing game with a dressing made of oatmeal and onions. He said raccoon was okay, but porcupine was good eating if you could drain off the grease.
Archie was a great reader, a legacy of early Catholic schooling and his study with the Trappist brothers. His great indulgence when on South Manitou was to go into the glassed-in lighthouse tower in the afternoon when it was warm with sun, taking an apple and a book.
Archie’s youngest son, Anthony Miller, remembers the winter of 1959 when he and his dad were the only people on North Manitou. Anthony was four years old. Archie had been contracted to stay on the island during that harsh winter to feed the deer and to clear snow away. A barn was filled with hay, and Anthony sat on the toboggan while Archie pulled it through the woods, dropping off feed here and there. Anthony remembers that the house was comfortable and he was happy to be with his dad.
In later years, the whole Miller family spent time in the Straits, living in a house behind the dock on South Manitou. There were long curving beaches and tiny coves to be explored, Seagull Point with its thousands of nesting gulls, dunes to climb, and fishing and playing in the often empty lighthouse.
Archie was also on South Manitou the fall of 1960, scouting out the wreck of the Francisco Morazan as soon as the weather permitted. Although already stripped of its brass navigational instruments and fittings, there was plenty of other scavenging to be done. The Alberto V05 hair-gel packets washing up all over the beaches were interesting, but the tinned chicken was a godsend. The early 1960s were tough times in Peshawbestown, and the chicken was a welcome addition to the diet of many village children. That summer, South Manitou became a kind of summer camp for Peshawbestown children. Every two weeks, a new group would arrive to the island for the feast.
Archie passed his love of the islands down to his children and grandchildren. He maintained lifelong relationships with many people from Leland and the islands: Bill Carlson, whom he met when Bill was a boy; the Grosvenors; the Reikers; and the Jelineks. Today the islands are a special legacy to us all. A refuge to man and millipede, the island’s beauty awes visitors and offers solitude. But it’s also intriguing to look past the regrown forests and empty beaches to try to imagine scores of masts, the horses hauling lumber from the interior, the schools ringing with voices and so many stories of lives lived on these islands, our Manitous—a true treasure of Leelanau County.
This story was reprinted from Inside UpNorth, the ultimate guide to having fun in Leelanau, Grand Traverse and surrounding counties. Books are available at the Cottage Bookshop or online at MissionPointPress.com.
Mission Point Press publishes new UPNORTH guidebook
From staff reports
Whether you’re planning a visit to the Grand Traverse region, are new to the area or happen to be one of the rare “natives,” INSIDE UPNORTH is an indispensable and inspiring road map to all things wonderful to see, sip, explore, trek and experience. INSIDE UPNORTH is published by Traverse City-based Mission Point Press. The “insider” contributors include Heather Shaw, who also designed the book, Bob Butz, Jodee Taylor, Tom Carr, Gabrielle Shaw, Mike Delp, Glen Wolff and Duncan Spratt Moran. The 254-page book lists for $16.95.
INSIDE UPNORTH is a bigger, better guidebook to the Northwest Lower Peninsula. It includes a unique collection of pure, magical escapes — often little-known nooks and crannies of rich delight, all across the Grand Traverse region. The authors, combined, have more than two centuries of living in the area and bring that knowledge and expertise to each page.
Here are highlights:
Heading this way? INSIDE UPNORTH reviews local restaurants, bars, brew pubs and wineries so you can get the best tastes and sips north of Chicago.
Got kids? INSIDE UPNORTH details all the exciting things the area offers for children of all ages, including a guided Adventure Tour of downtown Traverse City.
Do you paddle, swim, bike or hike? We’ve got the skinny on the best beaches, trails, rivers and races.
Are you interested in the history of the area? INSIDE UPNORTH has found a whole slew of stories covering the Native inhabitants to the first settlers, from the lumber era to the beginning of tourism. We also highlight area geology, agriculture, weather, wildflowers and birds.
Thinking of moving here? INSIDE UPNORTH covers housing, schools, jobs and the hottest area industries.
Spread through INSIDE UPNORTH you’ll find Taylor’s Encyclopedia of Local Knowledge, where local author Jodee Taylor demonstrates everything from “How to Make Fudge” to “How to Find Morels” to “How to Pee in the Woods.”
Got a dog? INSIDE UPNORTH shows you all the trails, parks and beaches where you and your best friend can unleash the fun.
Also included in INSIDE UPNORTH:
• Tours and Hangouts for Motorcyclists
• Fishing the Boardman, Manistee and Au Sable Rivers
• Surfing the Great Lakes
• The UPNORTH Music Scene
• Horsemanship Culture and Competitions
• Area Museums, Galleries and Antiques
• Tours of Leelanau County and Old Mission Peninsula
• Best Area Hauntings and Spooky Spots
• A Hunter’s Guide to Area Game
• Hiking, Skiing and Touring Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore
• Short Reviews of Area Golf Courses
• Downhill Ski Resort and Cross-Country Trail Reviews
• Contributions from Local Artists and Authors Including Bob Butz, Michael Delp and Glenn Wolff
• Plus, a Complete 2017 Calendar to Local Events
