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“Growing food in summer and fall is easy,” says Loma Farm owner Nic Theisen. “Growing during winter is a more interesting story.” Spoiler alert: he’s right. Winter is cold and snowy. There’s significantly less light. It costs lots of money to provide electricity if you want heat spaces to promote growing. It’s a huge challenge to try to grow under those conditions. Why even bother? There are a few reasons. One is because Theisen wants to promote better, longer-lasting use of the land. Another is to keep his workers employed year-round. And there are those that depend on the products from the farm, especially Farm Club, the nearby restaurant that Theisen and his wife Sara own along with Gary and Allison Jonas.

Spending a moment in the shade with Nic Theisen is a treat. It doesn’t take long into our interview before I start wishing I could be one of Loma Farm’s privileged 50 CSA shareholders, to be invited to private farm gatherings, receive personalized typeset pressed thank-you notes, and follow more closely the agricultural calendar as visually and deliciously evoked by his wit and craft.