New birds nest at La Bécasse

By Norm Wheeler
Sun editor
It’s not as if he just flew in from Paris with a “chippering trill” upon ascent and then a “burbling warble” as he descended*, but Frenchman Guillaume (pron. Gee-OHM) Hazael-Massieux will soon rule the roost at legendary La Bècasse. Guillaume is fixing up the adjacent house as his lovely wife Brooke and delightful three-year-old daughter Margot will soon join him at the landmark French country restaurant in Burdickville.
Born a Parisian, Guillaume came to Michigan in 1996 after he completed his military service in France and then sent letters all over the world seeking work as a chef. He was hired by the Amway Grand Plaza Hotel in Grand Rapids. There he met his wife Brooke, who worked in Human Resources (and obviously saw one in Guillaume!). “I am the chef this summer at La Bècasse, and once the closing is complete I will be the new owner,” Guillaume explains.

Long time fans of French country cooking need fear no slackening of quality. Hazael-Massieux’s credentials are impeccable. Guillaume studied in Lyon in the Paul Bocuse chef school. Chefs come there from every country to compete for the Bocuse d’Or prize. The program includes three years of cooking and management training, and combines classes with internships leading to a degree diploma. He has also earned two additional French national cooking degrees. “These are the two major degrees in France, and they require seven years of study and apprenticeship. After earning those I was 25, I went to the military for one year, and after two months of boot camp they decided to have me teach cooking,” grins Guillaume.
Following a stint at the Amway Grand, Guillaume worked for three years for Steelcase in Grand Rapids hosting dinners for customers the company brought in to wine and dine. He then became the executive chef for Restaurant Toulouse in Saugatuck. “I was working 12-14 hours a day and commuting home to my wife and baby daughter in Grand Rapids,” he says shaking his head.
In December of 2004 Guillaume heard from Brooke’s aunt and uncle (who have a cottage in Omena in Leelanau County) that there was a fine restaurant for sale in Burdickville. He made contact during the winter, completed a business plan, and started cooking at La Bècasse on May 1.
“It is such a charming place, and Peachy and John Rentenbach have done such a great job,” Guillaume continues. “My plan is to work on the culinary aspect, on adding more French country food, more of the daily fare of the French. In France people eat at home, and there isn’t foie gras and truffles on every plate, it is simpler. I will emphasize sauces and try to make a difference with original, classical French dishes. I want to work the right fresh, local products with the right attitude and a sense of fun.”
La Bècasse promises to remain the charming and excellent dining experience it is known to be. And Guillaume wants to start some cooking classes, maybe this fall and winter. “I love teaching,” he smiles. “Even if my English isn’t perfect, I have a good rapport with my students.” Soon visitors will be able to return after a first rate culinary experience to whisk up their own French sauces. Stay tuned.
And what about Peachy and John Rentenbach? Can they leave behind the nest they’ve tended for 18 years? “ I may stay and work here some,” Peachy muses. “But I have enrolled in a yoga teacher training class with Sandy Carden in Lake Leelanau, so that will keep me here and busy all winter. I know it will better my life whether I ever teach or not.” John wants to enjoy the summer by not working it away for a change. He plans to ride his bike, play golf, garden, “Do all the things our customers do”. John may also build a kayak this winter, but he assures, “That’s not work”.
They will continue to travel as well. Last year Peachy and John visited Jo Anne Wilson at the place she has in Provence that was pictured in the Glen Arbor Sun earlier this summer. “We want to be able to enjoy summers the way we have been seeing our guests enjoy summer,” Peachy says. “We are giving up our baby, we have no children — so a big responsibility is gone. It’s great to turn it over to such nice, enthusiastic young people. Guillaume understands the business, so we are pleased to see them take over.”
(*Woodcock sounds stolen from Roger Tory Petersen’s Field Guide to Birds)