Licking the competition: Ice Cream Shops from Cedar to Empire

By Pat Stinson
Sun contributor
News that Moomers of Traverse City won “America’s Best Scoops” in a national ice cream poll conducted in May by ABC-TV’s “Good Morning America” caused great celebration among the ice cream shop’s many fans, who cast thousands of votes for the local company online. Indeed, Moomers’ sweet and creamy homemade confection softly kisses parted lips and melts on lapping tongues more like a soft serve than a hard-packed frozen scoop.
Yet, ice cream lovers are a finicky bunch. Some prefer flavor over texture, aroma to color, quantity to butterfat content, melting characteristics and ingredients over price — and vice versa — or any combination of these over another. The number of words used to describe ice cream is surpassed only by the hundreds of flavors and brands they describe: sweet, salty, bitter, sour, smooth, grainy, gummy, globby, whipped, fluffy, icy, creamy, shocking, subtle, strong, firm, flabby, soft, plastic, elastic, chemical, organic, hormone-free, antibiotic-free, locally-made, expensive or affordable.
Photo by Peter Richards

Ice cream preferences change over time, too. Put a double scoop of Superman ice cream in front of a 5-year-old and watch the youngster’s eyes pop at the bright, colorful swirls and triple kiddie flavors. Give the same serving to a 35-year-old and the face may fall. Favorite brands, as well as taste buds, can evolve. Those who grew up dining on packaged Sealtest or Borden’s might prefer Häagen-Dazs, Julie’s or Ben & Jerry’s today.
A Social Dessert
The experience of eating ice cream “out” is so much more than savoring a scoop or crunching on a cone. Where an ice cream serving is enjoyed may be just as important as the dessert itself. The choice of a favorite ice cream may be influenced by a childhood memory of visiting a small stand next to a beloved lake or campground, or a tradition of returning again and again to a familiar place, or proximity of a parlor to home or work, or even how one traveled there — walking, riding bicycles, boating or driving.
Eating ice cream is a recreational pastime. Ice cream or strawberry socials have historically brought community members together each summer, just as the annual Empire United Methodist Church Strawberry-and-Ice-Cream Socials do each June.
With these points in mind, two local tasters embarked on a tough, three-and-a-half-hour tour of eight ice cream counters in southern Leelanau County, (and one outside the area that was heartily recommended and too enticing to miss). One of the tasters, an ice cream extremist whose first “real” job included serving scoops at Sanders, considers ice cream a food group. The other is a go-along-for-the-ride, good sport who prefers soft serve to hand-dipped varieties.
Please note we missed the Leelanau Coffee Roasting Company and Riverfront Deli — both in Glen Arbor and both which serve ice cream — on this particular Sunday afternoon. From east to west, here is the taste-testers completely unscientific and totally biased scoop on the lucky Leelanau eight, (and one interloper). Enjoy the tour!
Blue Moon Ice Cream Shop, 9032 SE Kasson St., Cedar. At the flashing light, corner of CR 616 & 651. Summer hours: 11-8, Monday-Thursday; 11-9, Friday and Saturday. Outdoor adult & children’s benches and picnic tables. Offers soft serve, frozen yogurt and two brands of hand-dipped ice cream: Ashby’s Sterling (some flavors are recent award winners) of Shelby Twp., Mich., and Country Dairy of New Era, Mich. Blue Moon is known for its flurries, shakes, sundaes, homemade Ace Caramels (Danish butter creams), Grasshoppers (premium vanilla soft serve with crème de menthe sauce, Oreo cookies and a cherry) and hot dogs. Flavors tasted: Country Dairy’s Butter Churn Butter Pecan and Moot Mint. The butter pecan had an incredibly rich, buttery flavor and wonderfully smooth texture. $2.50 for “medium” cone. (one and a half scoops). Moo Mint had a soft, creamy feel and fresh minty flavor. Flavors are 16 percent butterfat. Dark chocolate pieces and huge chocolate chips are delicious, easy to bite — not frozen solid. $1.75 for “kiddie” cone. (one scoop) Country Dairy’s ice cream is produced without the use of bovine growth hormones. The company currently owns 3,500 cows on 3,500 acres in New Era.
Cedar’s corner ice cream stand, with its blue metal roof, is an “institution,” particularly among ballplayers that walk from the field after a game.
Laker Shakes, 8995 S. Dunn’s Farm Rd., (Co Rd 675), Burdickville. At northeast corner of 616 (Burdickville Rd.) Hours: 12-8 daily; Closed Mondays. Outdoor bench. Serves Hudsonville ice cream. Most requested flavors among teens and tweens: Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough and Mint Chocolate Chip. Overall most requested: Chocolate Peanut Butter. Flavor tasted: Mint Chocolate Chip. Nice flavor & creamy feel, with a slightly elastic texture. Broken chunks of delicious, semi-sweet chocolate earn four stars. Single scoop (beware: it’s large!): $1. Shakes: $1.50. Hudsonville is named for the town in Michigan and has been producing ice cream since 1895.
Laker Shakes is a long-time favorite among Glen Lake residents and vacationers for its location next to Old Settlers Park & Picnic Grounds on Glen Lake. The little store also offers conveniences and DVD rentals.
Cherry Republic Café & Bakery, 6026 S. Lake Street, Glen Arbor. South of M-22. Summer hours: 9-7, Sun.-Thu.; 9-9, Fri. & Sat. Indoor/outdoor tables. Sixteen flavors of homemade ice cream, all but two including cherries or cherry flavor, according to relishmag.com. Flavor tasted: Chocolate-in-the-dark. Chocolate ice cream with dark chocolate-covered cherries, cake and brownie pieces. We’re sad to report this flavor was icy and lacked robust chocolate flavor, an exception among Cherry Republic flavors that have delighted us in the past. Rotate those cartons, servers! Single scoop: $3.16, including tax. (A five-oz. serving size…it’s huge!) They offer kiddie-sized scoops, but you have to ask for them. Lines at Cherry Republic’s ice cream counter form quickly but plenty of seats await, either in the comfortable wood décor of the dining room or next to the outdoor gardens. Five ice cream toppings are available in the retail shop.
Sleeping Bear Sweets, on the deck at Boone Dock’s, 5858 S. Manitou Blvd, Glen Arbor. southwest corner of M-109 & M-22. Summer hours: 11-9, Mon.-Sat. at height of season; 12-3, Sun. Outdoor seating with tables. Serves House of Flavors ice cream and frozen yogurt. Flavors tasted: Muddy Sneakers ice cream and Blueberry Vanilla frozen yogurt. Muddy Sneakers is a white chocolate ice cream with peanut candies, chocolate flakes and caramel ribbons. The white chocolate flavor is subtle but, being patient, we savored smaller bites, allowing them to melt in our mouths to release the chocolate flavor. In a blind tasting, we might have mistaken the white chocolate for vanilla with a caramel swirl. It is smooth — but is not as creamy as the Blueberry Vanilla yogurt. The real berry flavor in this one could rouse the sleeping bear in any blueberry lover. Single scoop: $1.75. House of Flavors ice cream is family owned and manufactured in Ludington, Mich.
Pine Cone, 6588 Western Ave., Glen Arbor. Just west of M-22 on north side of M-109. Summer hours: Noon-10, every day. Outdoor bench seating with tables on covered deck, smaller tables and chairs in sunshine. Two service windows: ordering and pick up. This stand packs them in, but dual windows whittle the wait. Serves 24 flavors of Ashby’s Sterling ice cream (some are award winners) of Shelby Twp., plus premium McDonald’s soft serve. Makes flurries, sundaes, parfaits, etc., and hot dogs. Flavors tested: Key Lime Pie and Mocha Almond Fudge. The Key Lime Pie disappointed at first, with a subtler flavor, an unexciting cream color and weird crunchiness. A few savory licks later, we tasted its full bouquet. The sweet and tart lime flavors are perfectly balanced. The graham cracker pieces lend a coconut texture to the otherwise velvety mix of whipped cream and lime mousse — odd, but delicious. Key Lime Pie was a gold ribbon winner in the L.A. (Los Angeles) County Fair in 2005. The Mocha Almond Fudge is everything you would expect from this flavor — milk chocolate color, medium coffee flavor, fudgy ribbons and crunchy, chocolate-covered almonds. Not as in-your-face as other brands of the same flavor combo, but still mighty satisfying for coffee lovers. Ashby’s flavors are 14 percent butterfat. Two scoops: $3.25. Pine Cone has been a Glen Arbor landmark as long as anyone can remember. Popular with locals and tourists, the stand’s timeless up north “flavor” has remained through a change of ownership and a remodel.

K.T.’s Glen Lake Bistro, 6999 W. MacFarlane Rd., Glen Arbor. At the southeast corner of CR 675 and CR 616. Summer hours: 11-10, Mon.-Sat.; 12:30-10 p.m., Sun. Indoor booth seating and outdoor tables. Serves 16 flavors of Ashby’s Sterling Ice Cream (some are recent award winners) of Shelby Twp., Mich. Flavor tested: Bear Claws. The dark chocolate color and listed ingredients … mini chocolate-covered cashews and caramel … were irresistible! Lots of chocolate flavor with pockets of caramel and plenty of cashews. Creamy, too. Single scoop: $2.92, including tax. K.T.’s also serves soups, sandwiches and cookies and a Bistro Backpack-to-go meal complete with plates, utensils, glasses or cups in a handy picnic pack. The new owners are enthusiastic supporters of their ice cream brand.
Gemma’s, on west side of M-22, north of M-72 in Empire, across the street from the Village Inn. Summer hours: 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Comfortable indoor seating with chairs and couches. Outdoor seating under an overhang. Serves House of Flavors ice cream, (Ludington, Mich.). Flavor tasted: Mint Chip. Good flavor, smooth, though not as creamy as some. Chocolate chunks harder than others but last longer. Kiddie scoop: $2.12, including tax. Gemma’s is an inviting, spacious coffee shop offering WIFI service and local products.

Tiffany’s Ice Cream & Cookies, 10213 W. Front St., Empire. On south side, east of Deering’s Market & Garden Center. Summer hours: 1-8, Mon.-Sat.; 1-7, Sun. “Later hours during busy times.” Ice cream parlor seating inside, small table outside. Serves Moomers ice cream. Flavor tasted: Grasshopper. Nice minty flavor, not overpowering; dark chocolate cookie pieces; light, creamy texture. For those preferring crunchy cookie to frozen chocolate pieces. Kiddie scoop: $1.86, including tax. Tiffany’s also serves coffee and fancy coffees.
Hilltop Soda Shoppe, 7117 South St., Benzonia. From US-31, take South Street east, just past First Baptist Church, up hill to white plaza (“Victoria’s Landing”) behind Movie Gallery. Summer hours: 11-10, Mon.-Sat.; 12-9, Sun. Worth the drive. Handmade ice cream by owners Victoria and Chris Mekas, graduates of Carpigiani Frozen Dessert University of Winston-Salem, North Carolina. (There’s an ice cream university? YES!) Spacious, clean soda shop with indoor, air-conditioned seating and outdoor wooden seats. Offers all-homemade flavors using Michigan ingredients. Gluten-free flavors offered. Fruit flavors are made using local fruit. Uses Country Dairy ice cream mix from New Era, (see Blue Moon). No hormones, no additives. Sweetened with sugarbeets, not corn syrup. Butterfat content (16 percent) gives this an incredibly creamy, soft texture. More weight by volume than most, according to the owners. All non-cream ingredients are hand chopped on the premises. Nuts are sautéed or roasted before being added to flavors. Ooo-la-la! Mint Chocolate Chip had chocolate pieces carved right from a giant bar of chocolate, and the ice cream had a delicate mint flavor and color — not overpowering. Chocolate ice cream was creamy, light and one of the most chocolatey flavors we’ve ever tasted — even teeny chocolate shavings could be seen in the frozen cream. Ask for a custom flavor, and they will try to make it! Single (large serving) scoop: $2.75 plus tax. Hand-packed pints available for sale with freezer packs to keep them cold on the drive home. Sanders ice cream toppings are also available for sale.
Off the beaten path and just four years young, these guys weren’t nominated for a national competition. We’re certain, if put to the test, Hilltop’s ice cream would give the TV show finalists a good run back to the barn. Don’t wait ‘til the cows come home to try them.