Leland Fishtown’s past, present, and the woman guiding its future

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Photos by Mark Smith

By Abby Chatfield

Sun contributor

Leland’s Fishtown is riding high these days, turning the corner on three years of shanty lifts and other reconstruction efforts imperative to preserving the future of this historic landmark as lake levels rise. This year has brought recognition on multiple levels, earning Fishtown a spot on the National Register of Historic Places and the Michigan Governor’s Award for Historic Preservation. These honors recognize the outstanding preservation achievements and dedication to stewardship of Michigan’s cultural resources demonstrated by Fishtown Preservation Society (FPS), the nonprofit operating Fishtown.

In January, Fishtown was listed on the National Register of Historic Places as a historic district and traditional cultural property, joining a select group of traditional cultural properties that are not Native American, Hawaiian, or Pacific Islander sites.

“The Fishtown Historic District Traditional Cultural Property now recognizes that Fishtown has statewide significance as an historic commercial fishery. The current nomination highlights the importance of European American commercial fishing heritage, but also recognizes the historic and ongoing role of Native American subsistence and commercial fishers,” shared Laurie Sommers, a freelance folklorist and historic preservation consultant who works with FPS as an oral historian and folklorist.

Commercial fishermen work outside Carlsons Fishery. Photo by Mark Smith

This recognition extends to Fishtown’s present day use by commercial fishermen and the traditional practices that are still maintained. “Many places are listed for their history or architecture, not for the preservation of important cultural traditions. Fishtown does both,” Sommers said.

Earlier this month, the Governor’s Award was bestowed upon FPS for their historic preservation efforts to save, raise and rehabilitate Fishtown from rising water levels.

The Michigan State Historic Preservation Office was long aware of what is going on with Fishtown and was involved in a two-year debate about the Carlson Fishery project, getting permits and approval for reconstruction. The lifting of buildings, a dramatic sight to behold, captured people’s attention across the country as state and national media covered it.

Amanda Holmes stands in front of the Morris Shanty on lift day. Photo by Amanda Smith

Much of the credit is due to the hard work contributed by many helping hands and led by FPS executive director Amanda Holmes. Biggs Construction managed the general reconstruction efforts, while Kasson Contracting and Team Elmer’s oversaw the lifting and moving of the historic buildings. Historic architects Hopkins Burns Design Studio and cultural consultant Laurie Sommers ensured that this necessary work kept true to Fishtown’s historic mark.

This work is important, because it supports both a commercial fishing industry and hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. Gaining a spot on the National Historic Register links to Fishtown’s future by protecting plans for the site, alongside preserving its people and culture.

Exactly what does Fishtown’s future look like, and who is leading the charge to secure it?

Fishtown’s Beginning

To understand the vision for Fishtown’s future, we must first look back on its rich history. Fishtown’s commercial fishing industry, in existence since the 1850s, remains one of the last unmodernized commercial fishing villages in Michigan.

It received its first official recognition in 1975, when it was listed as one part of the “Leland Historic District” in the National Register of Historic Places. “The initial National Register listing emphasized Fishtown’s local historic significance and provided the prestige associated with listing in the National Register,” Sommers stated.

On Feb. 7, 2007, a recently-established nonprofit, FPS, acquired a quarter acre on the north side of the Leland River near its mouth to Lake Michigan. The purchase included eight shanties, two smokehouses, 200 feet of riverside docks, some side buildings, and two fishing tugs complete with commercial fishing licenses and equipment.

FPS expanded opportunities in 2016 when they purchased two shanties and their long back lots on the river’s south side. One of these shanties is now used as a vacation rental to raise operational income for the nonprofit, while the other became a storage shanty for the FPS’ fishing tugs, the Joy and Janice Sue.

FPS exists to ensure public access to Fishtown and to maintain its historical integrity, working waterfront, artifacts and stories through preservation, education, and stewardship. Holmes is the nonprofit’s first executive director, and her career with FPS began in 2007 on the same day they finalized the initial land purchase.

“I don’t think that Amanda knew what she was getting into when she joined FPS,” said board member Joanie Woods. “She grew with the organization, running the nonprofit, managing the Fishtown rentals, and overseeing renovations, all while raising money for the same. She has handled well the many challenges for this latest wonderful historic preservation project taking Fishtown into the next 50 years.”

Fishtown’s Leader

Lightning strikes off the coast of Fishtown on May 12. Photo by Sarah Peschel.

Writer, storyteller, fundraiser, gatekeeper, guardian of history — Holmes’s position in Fishtown never lacks for variety, nor does it lend much time for her to take a breather from the endless challenges and needs of its community and grounds. Variety is one reason Holmes loves her work with FPS. She enjoys all the writing her position entails, from stories to grants. “I discovered I really enjoy fundraising. The people love to support the things they love,” said Holmes. “We have something that’s so irreplaceable and beloved.”

A look at her background hints that destiny brought her to Fishtown. Although born in the Lake City area, Holmes’s connection to Leelanau existed long before she and her husband made it their year-round home in 2004. Her parents owned property in Leelanau throughout her childhood, and eventually she purchased their old Omena farmstead, which she still calls home today. Her farmstead and some work on a pamphlet the Omena Historical Society hired her to create inspired her to publish an award-winning history book about Omena and present living history programs centered on 19th-century farm life.

After attending Interlochen Arts Academy as a four-year Creative Writing student, Holmes received her undergraduate degree in American Studies from Amherst College. This was followed by a PhD in Folklore and Folklife, along with a certificate in Historic Preservation from the University of Pennsylvania. When asked how her education serves her work for Fishtown, Holmes said, “Just every day down there is a preservation effort.” She learned to not assume that she knows everything that needs to happen and can talk with others about their perspectives and take them into account.

An aspect of her work that she really enjoys is recording people’s stories (to be unveiled in a future project) while working with others to educate the public that Fishtown is still a working place, not just a tourist center.

The Fishtown of Recent Years

So much has happened with Fishtown since her start with FPS, but Holmes is most proud of everything that FPS has accomplished since late 2018. After finishing the 2015 strategic plan, she realized the potential of Fishtown and began to see there is something bigger that FPS can do. Holmes shared that standing up to the challenge of the last few years and conveying that to others feels rewarding.

2019 brought high water levels, triggering immediate action to restore the historic buildings when it became evident that most needed a lift. One by one, the buildings were lifted by crane to set new foundations before getting lowered back into place at a higher, safer level than before. In January 2020, the well-known Village Cheese Shanty was the first shanty to get a lift.

By 2022, restoration continued into its third winter, with work pausing every year for the summer visitor season. Three shanties were restored, and all docks on the northside of the river were replaced. Carlson’s Fishery was completely rebuilt. At the same time, a large chunk of Fishtown is still dug up to make improvements on the municipal sewer infrastructure, and Leland Township is pushing forward earlier than originally planned with their work on the West River Street drainage system.

Future Plans

To complete the restoration project, FPS is preparing to next take care of the Icehouse and the FPS Welcome Center, along with some landscaping. “Half of these projects were not on our radar before early 2019,” said Holmes. “The recent water issues have made us focus on not just the Fishtown of next summer and five years from now, but the Fishtown of 50 years from now.”

FPS will develop their next strategic plan this fall, with a focus on enhancing and reassessing what all they offer to link it together for better public understanding.

Holmes hopes to expand the FPS volunteer program and create a commercial fishing apprenticeship program, which could begin to take place this summer. An apprentice will work alongside FPS captain Joel Petersen, in addition to taking on some responsibilities with FPS office staff.

This could be a test or experience for fishery students and kids just out of high school who aren’t interested in attending a four-year college. Since there’s a shortage of people who know how to commercial fish, an apprenticeship program could serve an important purpose. “There’s a missing generation or two of those who know how to do it,” Holmes explained.

FPS may also begin to look toward its southside by potentially utilizing more of their property as a center for the apprenticeship program. Fishermen historically stored and worked on their nets along the longer southside lots. This same area could include net building, welding, and a place to center studies on the history of commercial fishing and resource management.

Tim Newman of Kasson Contracting was so inspired by his ongoing work in Fishtown since 2010 that he purchased the fishing tug Mary Ann, sister to the Janice Sue. Newman may consider letting FPS use the Mary Ann as a floating classroom for the commercial fishing apprenticeship program. “I don’t want us just to be a museum,” Holmes said. Keeping the active piece of Fishtown alive is key to its future.

For more information about the work of Fishtown Preservation and how to help, visit FishtownMI.org, call 231-256-8878, or email aholmes@fishtown.org with your questions.