Leelanau County on the Cheap: Focus, Empire

By Ashlea Turner
Sun staff writer
This is a new column devoted to budget travelers who enjoy fresh food and quality time spent off the beaten path in Leelanau County. While following this advice, the savvy traveler will spend less than $25 a day (including tax and tip) on food and have plenty of adventures.
A Saturday spent in Empire will not only provide the budget-minded traveler with a belly full of culinary treats, but also more than enough places to explore and scenic vistas to witness. Empire is most enjoyable on foot or bicycle so first park your car and begin to relax.

It’s important to arrive in Empire early on a Saturday morning so that one can purchase the freshest produce from the Farmer’s Market next to the Post Office on the North Side of Front Street. Arriving between 8 and 9 will allow the shopper to select the most perfect peaches or blueberries. Pick up a small bag of perfectly ripe peaches for about $2.50 and stay for a bit to chat with the farmers and see the locals select the freshest zucchini and Roma beans. Enjoy one (or two, they are so tasty) of these peaches with breakfast and save the rest for snacks or for tomorrow’s excursions.
There are many choices for a great breakfast in Empire, including fresh baked goods from Grandma Lu at the Farmer’s Market, or a more substantial meal from either the Village Inn or Joe’s Friendly Tavern. To keep breakfast a bit lighter, but heavier on the fresh ground coffee, try Moon Dog on La Core St. to begin your day. Order a cup of coffee for $1.25 (a steal) and a fresh cherry scone for $2.00, don’t forget your gorgeous peach to round out the meal, and you’ve got breakfast for $5.95 with many peaches to spare. So that leaves us with $19.05 left in piggy bank, ready for the day.
It’s time to venture back downtown to explore the shops and head for the beach before lunchtime. There are a few “must-stop” shops in Empire, including the antique store, Miser’s Hoard, the art gallery, Secret Garden, the furniture store, Empire Heirloom Furniture Co. and the folk art shop, Gorte’s Woods ‘n Things. Walking West on Front Street, one first comes upon Miser’s Hoard, a wonderful place to discover unique antiques in an inviting space. Take time to talk with Paul and Heidi Skinner, the warm and witty proprietors of the shop. Continuing on down the North side of Front St., one will find the Secret Garden, a wonderful collection of unique handmade gifts and spirited artwork. The jewelry case is not to be missed.
After crossing La Rue St. (the Street St, funny, eh?), the Empire Heirloom Furniture Co. is immediately on the right. Spend some time looking at the finely crafted furniture and Up North treasures. It’s getting to be late in the morning now and a perfect time for a quick swim before a leisurely lunch back downtown. Follow the cool Lake Michigan breezes a couple of blocks West to the Public Beach. Find a spot to sit and relax for a bit after your shopping spree and to get thoroughly warmed in the sun before jumping into Lake Michigan. If you’re not quite brave enough for the often chilly, but invigorating, waters of Lake Michigan, take a dive in the warmer South Bar Lake. There is plenty to do at this beach, including beach volleyball, exploring the complete playground, sand castle making, beach walking and, of course, swimming and lounging.
After working up an appetite at the beach, head back downtown to Joe’s Friendly Tavern for lunch. ‘The Friendly,’ as some locals like to call it, is located on the South side of Front St., next to Deering’s Market, the local grocery store. They’ve got something for everyone, including burgers, salads, Mexican food, sandwiches, hearty and fresh soups, complete dinners and a full beverage selection. I recommend the Homemade Vegetarian Cake Sandwich because it is fresh, healthy and extremely filling. It is “a blend of rolled oats, dried cherries, sweet corn, red onion, red beans, garlic, tomato, grilled and served on a fresh-baked cracked wheat roll.” Delicious and affordable at only $6.00. The burgers are also famous and ground fresh every day. A hamburger and fries, the “Burger Plate,” is also only $6.00. Take your pick. All one needs is a big glass of water and time to enjoy the comfortable setting. After leaving a tip of about 20 percent, we still have $11.05 left for dinner and a snack today.
It’s time to burn off lunch and enjoy the promised beautiful vistas so head south out of town, hike up hilly Wilco Rd., turn right at the top and you find yourself at the Empire Bluffs Trail Head, part of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (Editor’s note: The $7 National Park entrance fee is not included in the day’s budget.). Keep hiking up and through gorgeous hardwood forests and eventually you will find yourself at the top of Empire Bluff. Take some time to enjoy the amazing view before heading back into town for a treat. (Make sure to bring some water with you on a warm day.)
Hiking back into town on Michigan Ave. will bring you past the delightful Gorte’s Woods ‘n Things, a mecca of folk art and curiosities. You can’t help but stop and look at the beautiful gardens of plants and art, and if you’re lucky, Evelyn and Jerry Gorte will be outside to tell you about their crafts.
Does ice cream sound good right about now? Then Tiffany’s Ice Cream and Cookies is your choice for some ice cream and a trip back in time. The lemon sorbet is the number one pick for a refreshing treat that’s not rich, but perfect for a hot summer day. A small cone only costs $1.75, so now the piggy bank has about $9.30 left.
The afternoon in Empire has many possibilities depending on the weather and the traveler’s tastes. For a look into the history and culture of Empire, a trip to the Empire Museum Complex on La Core St. is a top priority. The museum is open daily in the summer 1-4 p.m., except Wednesdays. September through October, weekends only. The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore Visitor’s Center on M-72 just east of downtown is great for exploring the natural and built environment surrounding Empire. There is also a small museum of stuffed indigenous creatures, including a lynx and a flying squirrel. Both of these explorations are free, but donations are accepted.
It’s getting to be dinnertime in Empire and like lunch, Empire has several dinner possibilities, including pizza at Deering’s Market and dinner at Joe’s Friendly Tavern. For a pub-style meal, choose the Village Inn on M-22. The “V.I.” as the locals like to call it, has much to offer including pizza, complete dinners, sandwiches, grinders, burgers, salads and lots of great appetizers. The “Sandpiper” is considered the “Village Inn” classic sandwich. It’s a hot turkey sandwich with onion, slaw, and swiss on a sourdough bun. The Plate comes with french fries, tater tots, onion rings or cole slaw for only $6.50. It’s just within budget, tasty and extremely filling. Eat up!
So that empties out our Empire piggy bank after a generous tip, but remember, we’ve still got plenty of peaches to eat and a sunset to catch. See you back on the beach.