Leelanau County on the Cheap: Fall Color Tour

by Ashlea Turner
Sun staff writer
This column is devoted to budget travelers who enjoy fresh food and quality time spent off the beaten path in Leelanau County.
Contrary to popular belief, it is possible to visit Leelanau County and be a budget-minded traveler at the same time. Autumn is a favorite time of year for many visitors and residents alike because the days may still be warm, but never sweltering, and the evenings are crisp. The hardwoods provide visual splendour as they turn their luscious green leaves of summer into brilliant shades of vermillion, russet and gold. The apple trees are full of their bounty and the vines weigh heavy with grapes. Lake Michigan feels wetter and the rocks, rockier. Everything is changing, even the pulse of this place.

Exploring this area in early to mid-October, however, provides the budget-minded traveler with more than scenic drives and snapshot moments. The pace of life slows down after the hustle and bustle of summertime activities, so fall is an ideal time to experience more of the local culture and culinary treasures that abound in the greater Glen Arbor/Empire area.
Because business slows down a bit, there are also reduced rates on hotels, bed and breakfasts and weekly home rentals. Inquire with Leelanau Vacation Rentals for a wealth of information (334 6100) on condos, cottages and homes for rent in the area. The campgrounds are a great option for the budget savvy and offer plenty of space and quiet.
Many of the restaurants and shops that close their doors in the winter remain open through the end of October, but with reduced hours. There are many great options for enjoying this season’g bounty. Glen Arbor resident, Heather Sack, enjoys lunch at either Riverfront Pizza or the Good Harbor Grill (only open through the end of October for breakfast and lunch.) At the GHG, Heather recommends the Portabella Wrap and says the “fresh organic salad is the best salad in Glen Arbor.” She also enjoys taking many of her friends there, many of whom are vegetarian, because “there are so many vegetarian options.” She also adds that Sue Nichols’ sandwiches at Riverfront Pizza on the Crystal River are “great, especially the Albacore Tuna and the Cherry Chicken Salad.” Thankfully, Riverfront Pizza is open all year and offers many delicious and very reasonably priced weekly lunch specials (Riverfront Pizza 334-3876.)
For a quick and healthy lunch on a crisp Autumn day in Empire, stop by Moon Dog on La Core St. for a cup of pumpkin soup and an organic hot dog, and possibly some fresh hot cider. If it happens to be Wednesday, however, there’s nowhere else to go but Art’s Tavern in Glen Arbor for their world-famous Chicken Jalapeno soup — creamy, spicy, delicious. Enough said.
Although the lazy beach-combing days of summer might be over, there are many other options to fill vacation days to the brim with activities for all ages. One local favorite is the not-to-be-missed Empire Heritage Day that takes place on Saturday October 11 from 1-4 p.m. This fun-filled afternoon that takes the young and old back in time will happen at the Empire Museum Complex on La Core St. in downtown Empire. To celebrate the museum’s last open day of the year, the committee, headed by Dave Taghon (everyone’s favorite local cultural historian), will host this family-friendly event, free to the public. ($2 donations appreciated, however.)
This year, the Empire Heritage Day hopes to have on hand the following: an exhibit of old cars and bicycles, apple-cider making, apple-butter making, ice cream making, old-fashioned sauerkraut making, china painting, butter churning, crafts and more. Taghon says, “it’s a fun-filled day for everyone.” At 3 p.m. the Quilt Raffle will commence and the lucky winner gets to go home with a beautiful quilt made by the Firehouse Quilters.
That same evening, the Glen Arbor Women’s Club Annual Smorgasbord takes place at the Town Hall in downtown Glen Arbor from 6-8 p.m. Admission is $10 for adults and will provide a belly full of culinary treats to satisfy even the pickiest of palletes.
If one is looking for ways to burn off the calories consumed at these hot spots, it’s time to get out of the car and explore the countryside and coastlines of Leelanau County. There is no better way to experience the beauty of Autumn than to hike the trails of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore or to bike the backroads. One can pick up free information, recommendations and maps at the Visitors’ Center in Empire. On a rainy day, ask to view the film of the park for something to do until one ventures back out-of-doors.
Another wonderful way to experience the culture and beauty of the area is to visit the local galleries of art and craft that abound. Many stay open through the end of October, but most close for the winter. Secret Garden in downtown Empire will stay open weekends through the holiday season and offers the shopper many beautiful handmade options.
Synchronicity on M-109 in Glen Arbor displays paintings, sculpture, pottery and jewelry representing many Michigan artists and keeps regular hours through the fall. Many of the other local galleries along M-109 are also open through the fall, but often only on the weekends. Call the galleries for an appointment if they are not open when you are in town. Many are more than happy to oblige.
How about learning something new while on vacation? To try a new craft of your own, spend an afternoon at The Yarn Shop in Glen Arbor. The wonderful teachers and accomplished knitters offer free instructions anytime. For information on upcoming fall art classes and workshops, contact the Glen Arbor Art Association at 334-6112.
One can even learn and taste at the same time while exploring the county’s countless vineyards, wineries and tasting rooms. Several are located toward the center of the county, near Cedar and Lake Leelanau. More are located near the amicable villages of Suttons Bay and Northport. Spend some time tasting the bounty of the Leelanau Peninsula and chatting with the local vintners, many of whom bubbling over with enthusiasm and information on this area’s growing wine industry.
As one can see, there is more than enough to see and experience while in this area without emptying the Piggy Bank. Enjoy this time of year, but be sure and come back in the winter too, when the locals have even more time to share their homes and stories with you.