Country bird nests in the city

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By Norm Wheeler
Sun editor

Guillaume and Brook Hazael-Massieux are spreading their wings. The owners of the legendary La Becasse (“the woodcock”) French country restaurant in Burdickville are humming this week into their second nest at 118 Cass Street in downtown Traverse City named Bistro Foufou (“hummingbird”). Their new eatery is the fruit of a three-year process that finally ripened last winter when they negotiated the purchase of Hanna Bistro, a prime location just a block off Front St. in the busy center of Traverse City.

Guillaume and Brook have owned and operated La Becasse for eight years after moving up from Grand Rapids where they worked at Restaurant Toulous. Trained as a chef in Lyon, France, Hazael-Massieux brings a blend of classical skill and deft creativity to his culinary artistry. This excellence flavors the enduring quality of the dining experience at the up-scale La Becasse out here in The County, and it is sure to follow along into Traverse City at the accessible Bistro Foufou.

“We will offer classic French bistro fare,” Guillaume explains. “We’ll have mussels and fries, steak and fries, a codfish brandade, and a different French stew every day. Entres will range from $14 – $25, lunches from $10 – $15.” Six months of preparations and two months of remodeling have created an alluring space in which to hang out and enjoy this menu. The stunning new bar features an impressive nineteen feet long soapstone top mounted on a solid half-wall of wine crates.

“The bar seats 14, and the lounge will seat 30,” the chef continues. “We will also offer over 40 wines by the glass, many from France and from Michigan, and the food will highlight local farm ingredients. We get our bread from Nine Bean Rows in TC, and produce from Second Spring Farms, among others. Cherry Capital Foods is our main supplier, and they are heavily invested in local businesses.”

Guillaume is the executive chef, and Brook has been on point in advertising and promotion and is busy creating the new website: bistrofoufou.com. Adam McMarlin is the bistro chef, Josh Rollo is the general manager, and Heidi Robinson is the dining room manager, event coordinator, and detail dudette. Stephanie Kenyon, a veteran of the former Bay Leaf Restaurant, is the sous chef, and she describes a tantalizing fish stew that will be a highlight of the menu: “It will be a bouillabaisse from Provence with fennel, tomato, fish stock, mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops, seasonal fish, and orange zest.” Yum!

Bistro Foufou opened with a cocktail party on Aug. 7. By Aug. 13 Bistro Foufou, located at 118 Cass St. in Traverse City, will settle into regular business hours, Monday-Thursday from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 to 11. For information call (231) 421-6583.