Cedar Sol’s tantalizing tacos
By Pat Stinson
Sun contributor
Robert P., who recently moved here from Chicago, says he has stopped by the Cedar Sol Hydro Farm taco stand at least 12 times since it opened during Cedar’s Polka Fest in early July.
“You can’t get tacos like this anywhere up here,” he exclaims, not whining but appreciative.
Robert, who prefers Cedar Sol’s steak tacos, says he used to stop at any street corner in Chicago and get a taco fix. But it’s a little far to travel these days — plus the taco stand’s location at the top of the hill on County Road 651, barely south of Cedar, has a different ambiance.
“It’s a great place to eat, with a gorgeous view,” he adds, gesturing at the umbrella-shaded picnic table, glowing bright red against the green hillsides and blue sky to the west.
The folks pulling in the stand’s driveway at 2:30 on a Friday afternoon aren’t here for the view. They purposefully stride to the counter, barely glancing at the taco menu on the white board above the grill, and place their orders like old pros. Many of them are, but some are passing through and step on the brake when they see the colorful taco sign and unbelievable price — just $2. Then there’s the taco menu: pork, chicken, steak, chorizo (a spicy Mexican sausage) or bean, served with cilantro and onion on corn or flour tortillas, with homemade hot sauce on the side. For another quarter, you can add Pico de Gallo (fresh, homemade salsa) or shredded cheese for 50 cents. There’s a quesadilla, a side order of tortilla chips and fruity soft drinks, too.
The master behind this mouth-watering Mexican goodness is Carlos Cortez, a Tallahassee transplant who came here to plant strawberries and stayed on to do much more. Cortez lives with the McHughs, including Michael, his wife Nichole and their son Parker. Cortez flashes a smile as he modestly explains that he made tacos once for Cedar Sol’s owners, who “liked them,” and that’s how he found himself with a full-time job.
Michael describes Cortez’s cooking with more aplomb: “He’s a pretty fantastic Mexican cook!”
Adding to the allure is the use of fresh-picked vegetables grown hydroponically on the premises, including lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, peppers and summer squash, or what Cortez calls, “a little bit of everything.” Michael says they try to sell out, so the fixings are “made fresh daily.” Next winter, the farm’s homework will include researching local sources for meat, which he explains could result in “considerably less driving and considerably less packaging,” though keeping the tacos priced low might be more challenging.
“That’s the hard part,” Michael admits, “but I’m a farmer; I understand.”
In fact, tacos were added to “round out” Cedar Sol’s early harvest of greens and late harvest of strawberries — and the idea has worked out beautifully.
“It’s been such a hit, which is excellent. It fits the whole groove of what’s going on here. It’s been fun and people suggest foods,” he says, indicating that next year they may add corn on the grill and tamales.
A 60-something Harley rider pulls in, followed by a couple from Northport and a couple of sun-baked guys from Cedar and Interlochen. A truck driver parks and eats his tacos in the driveway. Michael pops up from the picnic table, with a quick farewell, and disappears inside the cedar-sided garage that serves as the farm’s taco stand.
Robert, almost finished with his three-taco meal, has been watching from the picnic table as more than a dozen people have stopped.
“This is great,” he says, observing that brisk business means the taco stand will stick around. “Then, I don’t have to worry.”
Cedar Sol Hydro Farm’s seasonal taco stand, at 9452 S. Cedar Rd., Cedar, is open 7 days a week, 12-8, although they may close the stand every other Sunday. Visit www.cedarsolhydrofarm.com and “like” them on Facebook. Call (231) 228-8000.
