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How is Empire still Empire? It’s one of the main hubs for the Sleeping Bear Dunes, it has epic beaches, and it’s right along one of the most beautiful stretches of road in the entire region. Yet, the town of Empire remains solidly quaint, comfortable, and relaxed. Sure, the crowds come through, and the beaches get busy, but the town simply swells with the ebb and flow, and returns to its steadfast self. There have been small additions with big, positive impacts over the years, but it’s truly remarkable how Empire has stayed a classic northern Michigan beach town. And for families with kids, it’s a place where they can be active, get dirty, and start fostering those uniquely vibrant lakeside memories.

The Shipwreck Cafe, the popular sandwich shop in Empire, has upped its game in 2021 by adding a wood-fired pizza. Owner Steve Nowicki began serving pies the first week of January. Through the month of January, Nowicki said he sold about 50 pizzas per day on Fridays and Saturdays—the days Shipwreck serves pizza. He has sold about 30 per day in February and March.

Steve and Jennifer Nowicki opened Shipwreck Cafe in June of 2017. They wanted to bring a new, alternative dining choice to Empire, the Gateway to the Sleeping Bear Dunes. Together with their daughters, Hannah (18) and Rebecca (15), they are proud of the reputation they are building of delicious food, in a friendly family atmosphere.

The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore enjoys a healthy relationship with a nonprofit group of local volunteers, Friends of Sleeping Bear Dunes, which has pitched in to keep trails and parking lots plowed, collect trash and keep toilets clean and accessible during the federal government shutdown.

The acting president’s shutdown of the federal government, now nearly a month old, has furloughed approximately 800,000 workers nationwide. One Leelanau County resident considered an “excepted employee” is an air traffic controller at Cherry Capital Airport in Traverse City. He spoke with the Glen Arbor Sun under the condition of anonymity, citing a government “gag order”.

The government shutdown, about to enter its third week, has closed all National Parks, including the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. That is hurting several Empire businesses near the National Lakeshore’s visitor center, and it’s doing so at the slow time of year when they need business the most.

A big drawback for business in Empire is the village’s lack of adequate wastewater treatment. Amidst the specter of a shuttered grocery swirls an impassioned, at times contentious, debate over whether the village should invest in a municipal sewer system—either to benefit the core business district or to cover the wastewater needs of most residents.

Sand in your sandwich is not a nuisance, but welcomed nostalgia. If you’re ready to pack your beach bags with too much food and drink, and slap down your territorial towel flags, here’s a breakdown of some of the best places to get stocked up for your next beach picnic in “the County.”

“With any business, you have [worry and doubt],” said Steve Nowicki about opening his Shipwreck Café in Empire late this spring. “We had all of our eggs in one basket. We put everything into this and if it didn’t work out we didn’t know what we were going to do.”

Glen Arbor pedestrians and shopping tourists have one more reason to walk west on M-109 this spring. Just past the Good Harbor Grill and the Pine Cone ice cream shop, Katy and Matt Wiesen have opened the clothing apparel store Coastal in the space formerly occupied by Great Lakes Tea & Spice. The tea & spice shop hopscotched west to the other side of Ruth Conklin Gallery, and now shares a space with Arabella Concepts jewelry store.