Can agritourism help Michigan farms survive?

Ben LaCross, president of Michigan Farm Bureau and a Leelanau County cherry farmer, spoke at the Agritourism conference. Photos by Madeleine Hill Vedel

By Rebecca G Carlson

Sun contributor

Small American farmers are facing an existential crisis driven by record debt, corporate consolidation, and policy shifts that have negatively impacted farmers for well over 25 years, according to Time magazine. “If we’re going to save the family farm, we need policies that support the success of small and midsized farmers and the communities they call home—not the profits of multinational companies,” said Alicia Harvie, Farm Aid’s advocacy & farmer services director.

So how can Michigan save family farms and protect the rich agricultural heritage? Agritourism is one solution.

Michigan farmers, and farming families who have been considering growing their agricultural businesses, listened to the opportunities offered during The Agritourism Summit held May 13-14. Starting with a pre-summit farm tour through Antrim County and an evening soiree, the Agritourism Summit was held at the Grand Traverse Resort with a focus on Planting Seeds for a Resilient, Sustainable Agritourism Industry.

What is agritourism? While there is no legal definition, it is a form of commercial enterprise that links agricultural production and processing with tourism to attract visitors to a farm, ranch, or other agricultural business for the purposes of entertaining, educating, or providing recreational experiences while generating income for the operator, according to the USDA.

Opening the summit was Dianna Stampfler who stated the “Intention [is] to share perspectives across local governments, state policy makers, growers, and agritourism entrepreneurs…advancing collaboration in the region.” Agritourism in Michigan can translate to farm stays, farm tours, creating products for retail, becoming a special events destination, and ultimately creating a cohesive connection between consumers and food producers.

Ben LaCross, president of Michigan Farm Bureau and a Leelanau County cherry farmer, offered the welcome address emphasizing the theme: “Cultivating Opportunities through Collaboration, Innovation, and Policy.” Agritourism becomes key as it is how visitors can connect to agriculture—shaking hands with the food producer at a farmer’s market, learning about the methods for extracting sap for maple syrup, or picking fruit at a self-serve farm stand.

With around 50,000 farms raising an estimated $100 billion in revenue, Michigan is the 2^nd most diverse agricultural state as it is home to over 300 different types of crops. LaCrosse explained, “Agritourism tells the story of Michigan agriculture as no other sector can.” Through corn mazes, pumpkin patches, farm markets, maple syrup operations, and more, agritourism creates a direct connection between the land and the farmers. Furthermore, LaCrosse stressed, agritourism is an opportunity to “Chang[e] how people think about food.”

The summit continued with panelists from four Northern Michigan farm owners and operators who explained their path to grow their agritourism businesses: Jimmy Spencer, Pond Hills; John Dindia, Lakeview Hill Farm; Amber Parsons, Harwood Gold; and Greg Shooks, Cellar 1914. Each presenter offered personal background, strategies, and growth models of the family agricultural businesses. During the following question and answer period, none shied away from difficult questions regarding insurance liability, ownership options, succession plans, as well as addressing over-commercialization and zoning queries.

Spencer, who owns Pond Hills with his wife, began selling eggs at the end of their driveway 30 years ago, later creating a year-around agritourism business model for their restaurant, winery, brewery, and farm market. Spencer stated, “Creating value-added things” brought cars down the driveway. In the slower seasons of winter and spring, Pond Hills adapts by offering cross country skiing and other winter activities to keep the visitors coming. Lastly, Spencer explained, “perpetuation planning,” carefully defining the business’ future and succession, will help protect farms and their heritage.

John Dindia, who owns Lakeview Hill Farm and Market with his wife Bailey Samp, began their farming journey in 2017. Offering both wholesale and direct-to-consumer products, this successful husband and wife team offer certified organic produce, cut flowers, and groceries year around. In the seasonal world of Northern Michigan, this is not an easy feat. But they successfully manage both a greenhouse, hoop house, and a retail outlet offering year around employment. Lakeview Hill also participates in the MI Farm Coop, as well as offering around 25 farm tours a year to local schools.

Third panelist, fifth generation farmer Amber Parsons of Harwood Gold along with her family, has grown the late 19th century family farm into a successful agritourism business. Starting as a maple syrup producer, Parsons and her family’s maple syrup business evolved into a retail brand, café, food company, and agritourism destination. Embracing the hospitality of agritourism business, Parsons stressed the importance of “branding and storytelling” for visitors who wish to “bu[y] the story, nostalgia, and [make a] connection” to the farm. However, she offered a caveat: “Growth can be dangerous if it pulls you away from your identity.” It is the authenticity and imperfections that will connect visitors to the farm.

Fourth generation farmer and the final panelist, Greg Shooks of Cellar 1914, explained the roots of the Shook’s Farm began traditionally in 1914, farming crops and fruit trees as well as livestock. As with many multi-generational farming families, as the elder generation stepped back, the younger generation makes the decision to continue the farm or sell the land. Greg Shooks and his brother stepped in and decided to put in a vineyard. Twelve years later, these siblings have created a thriving agritourism business with a winery and tasting room, farm tours, farm stays, wedding and special event spaces, corn maze, and more. Lastly, Shooks offered words of wisdom that echoed Parsons: “sell the authentic self on the farm.” Tell the honest stories of both successes and failures, so that visitors understand and appreciate the real world of the working farm.

Following the morning panelists were three breakout seminars ranging from marketing and promotions, understanding local ordinances for agritourism businesses, and lastly, the one I attended, “Right to Farm Act Basics,” focusing on the fundamentals of the Michigan Right to Farm Act as it relates to General Accepted Agricultural Management Practices (G.A.A.M.Ps).

This breakout seminar was packed with standing room only. Deftly moderated by Ryan Coffey Hogue, this seminar explained the Right to Farm Act (1981) and how the voluntary guidelines of GAAMPs can assist with farm management and legal rights of farm owners. During his presentation, Hogue encouraged everyone to consider the GAAMPs program as a “shield to protect farms.” Currently, updates to guidelines on greenhouse and hoop house farming are being considered. Towards the end of the session, Hogue, and several audience members, advocated for summit attendees to get involved on their planning and zoning commissions with the intent of shaping and protecting our future Northern Michigan agricultural communities.

Sustainability, food security, community responsibility, environmental stewardship, personal connection to food sources, resourcefulness, and diversity are just a few of the intrinsic values of small family farms. “By preserving biodiversity, open space and trees, and by reducing land degradation, small farms provide valuable ecosystem services to the larger society” (USDA).

Our agricultural heritage is worth protecting, and this agritourism summit is an integral step in providing the tools and information to those potential agricultural entrepreneurs who plan on successfully leading their family farms into the future, and, as Amber Parsons shared, “Creat[ing] something that lasts.”