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May 17, 2012
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Archive for the ‘Poetry/Essay’ Category

Once Upon a River, a novel by Bonnie Jo Campbell

Sunday, July 31st, 2011

Book Review by Zinta Aistars

Reading a Bonnie Jo Campbell book is like sitting down for a cuppa, or a cold one, with your very best gal pal. You can let loose and relax, kick off your shoes, loosen your girdle, because she does, her story does, the way it weaves in and around you and floats you along, easy, easy. Just like a river. No pretenses. Nearly effortless. No masks required, because Campbell will see through them, or, more accurately, doesn’t seem to have a clue that masks exist. She is what she is, and her books reflect that authenticity. Maybe no one has convinced Campbell that some in the harried human race believe masks are required gear for survival.

Not in Campbell’s world. She is the rare blend of a literary talent with a knack for telling a good tale. While there are plenty of one, and quite a few of the other, a solid blend of the two is a rarity. We begin to float down her Once Upon a River (W.W. Norton & Company, July 2011), rocked by waves without ever being jerked around, not even at the sound of a gunshot.

Campbell’s novel tells the story of Margo Crane, a 16-year-old girl, beautiful without knowing it, or caring one way or another. Margo has grown up in Michigan country, not far from the Kalamazoo River on a smaller river called the Stark. “The Stark River flowed around the oxbow at Murrayville the way blood flowed through Margo Crane’s heart.”

This is a girl who handles a gun like an extension of her own body. She idolizes Annie Oakley. She lives with her father in the back country, her mother abandoned her years ago, and she is nowhere more at peace than when she is drifting on the river, watching painted turtles or catching fish or counting herons. She knows how to skin a rabbit and she shoots to kill when she sees game.

A reoccurring theme in Campbell’s books is the woman wounded by life and by men, as a result tough and wise and independent — a survivor. Margo Crane joins that line-up. She isn’t educated in academics, but she knows how to maneuver through life like a river, and little scares her. Like many young girls, she almost doesn’t get it when she is raped by an uncle — was it her fault somehow? It is unclear to her when to defend herself, but when defending someone she loves, the line of fire is very clear. More than once, more than twice, she must shoot with that uncanny ability she has to hit an acorn across a field to save the innocent from the brutality of a man gone wild.

“She studied the railroad-tie fence post from its base to its top, as it rose to about her own height. She studied the green fruit with the burr acorn on top. Beyond it was the smooth expanse of river. She wrapped the sling around her left hand and elbow and pushed against it. When she nestled the stock in her shoulder and pressed her cheek against it, her stance and grip were solid. The Indian disappeared, and she was alone with her gun and her target. She looked through her sights … for Margo there usually came an instant like now when she felt solidly rooted to the planet. Without a conscious decision to do so, she smoothly pressed the trigger straight back and held it there as the rifle sent the bullet down the barrel on its way to the acorn.” (Page 213)

Margo’s journey floats her down that river by ripple effect from her actions, a stream carrying her along, but it is the stops she makes along the way that bring in the conflicts of the story. Tossed out of life as she knows it when her father dies, in part due to her sharp shot, she searches for the mother who abandoned her. She finds her, if not quite what she is looking for, but finds also mutations of love, mutations of hatred, and sometimes the two intertwined.

An inescapable lesson for a pretty woman is to always watch for the man who will hurt her, as nearly all of them do — even the ones who seem to care about her. Rape is always a threat, and sometimes more than just a threat. She is conflicted in how to handle an unwanted pregnancy, thinking she wants one kind of resolution while moving almost unwillingly toward another.

The real love of Margo’s life, alongside the river, turns out to be Smoke — a man too old to be a threat or even a caretaker, but someone who allows her to become one. With his crass manner, not unlike her own, he teaches her to allow for gentler moments. Each of them have a battle to wage in their lives, although each to a different end. Yet that is how a river moves between its banks: living and dying intertwined, youth and old age, the gentle moment leaning against the instant of brutality, moving along in the direction life navigates you, but occasionally managing to paddle to shore, until you are pushed into the rapids again.

Campbell understands that the world is generally made to fit one kind of person — the kind that does not exist anywhere but in the hopeful mind. All the rest of us just have to make do. Her characters are those who do not fit but eventually surprise with how exceptionally well they make do.

Once Upon a River continues Campbell’s literary journey, easing along in irresistible flow. We can’t help but be carried along. Emerging from these waters, we feel refreshed, if a little wiser, if a little more sure about fitting in with a world of misfits. We all are one. Campbell makes that feel like the best way to be, if not the only way to survive.

Bonnie Jo Campbell will read from Once Upon a River on Friday, August 5, from 1-3 p.m. at the Cottage Book Shop in Glen Arbor. She is the author of two short story collections, Women & Other Animals (University of Massachusetts Press, 1999; Simon & Schuster, 2003) and American Salvage (Wayne State University Press, 2009; W.W. Norton, 2009) and the novel Q Road (Scribner, 2003). American Salvage was a finalist for the 2009 National Book Award and the National Book Critics Circle Award. She has won a Pushcart Prize and the Eudora Welty Prize. Her stories, essays and poetry have appeared in many publications, including The Smoking Poet. She was born and lives now in Kalamazoo.

Creative writing in National Lakeshore

Monday, July 18th, 2011

From staff reports

Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear offers the inspiration for creative writing in their Path to the Page Writing and Hiking workshop on Thursday, July 28 from 9 a.m. – 3 p.m. with instructor Anne-Marie Oomen of Interlochen Arts Academy. Participants will learn about the history of select farmsteads during their three-mile walk on the Bayview Trail through the Port Oneida Rural Historic District.

Oral history will be given of each farm, along with time to write, with guidance, instruction and readings from Oomen. Writers at any level are welcome.

A box lunch is included in the $70 cost for the program. Advanced registration is required. For further details or to register call Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear at (231) 334-6103 or visit www.phsb.org. PHSB is a nonprofit partner of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore committed to preserving the historic structures and landscapes within the Park.

Beach Bards begins 23rd year

Friday, June 24th, 2011

The Beach Bards Bonfire — the storytelling and poetry festival on Friday nights at The Leelanau School beach north of Glen Arbor — begins its 23rd season tonight. Children’s hour starts at 8 p.m., and the adult portion begins at 9 p.m. Bards Norm Wheeler, Anne-Marie Oomen, Bronwyn Jones and Joe VanderMeulen typically lead the performance (stories and poems are recited by-heart, and not read, according to the oral tradition). And musicians usually make an appearance around the fire.

Check out this story from our archives to learn more about the Beach Bards.

Wheeler himself contributes many traditional ballads and myths. He begins each night introducing the fundamental elements of paganism — cocking his head back and blowing the conch shell into the night-coastal air. To listeners sitting on gigantic stumps and boulders — strangely reminiscent of Stonehenge — there is a brief moment of silence afterwards. During it one must strain to hear any more than the lapping of the lake water 50 yards away.

After Wheeler’s traditional opening monologue which incorporates different languages like Old English and Chaucerian Middle English, Oomen and Jones usually take center stage. Each carries the voice of a strong and determined woman. Oomen once wrote a play about single women who survived working the fields on Northern Michigan farms.

Empire Asparagus Festival poetry contest winners

Monday, May 23rd, 2011

“Asparagus: 21st Century Michigander”
First place

By Kimberlee Johnson

Ever-stoic asparagus, with stalks as tenacious and resilient as the Michigan soul,
With emerald reaching to break through stubbornly persistent opaque clouds,

Patience is thy virtue.

From seed, slow to unveil yourself, a phoenix of sorts,
a reminder that strength is acquired, earned—

You wait through a summer of glorious blossoms about you
And with an ever-present yearning within you
to pierce the surface of the soil and rise above it…

Then, without warning, the sun glitters upon you,
and your twisted marvels reveal their inner power:
braided blossoms of earthy green
caressed by curved tips of lavender and violet.

Yes, suddenly, and with the certainty and impulsivity rivaled only by true love—
Spring reveals her strongest proof of victory over winter, and it is YOU.

Commode to Asparagus
Second place

By Mary O’Neill

Into the bust
Of spring we rush
With the coming
Of asparagus.

Through earth’s crust
Green spears, they thrust!
We are succumbing
To asparagus.

Your flavor’s robust!
We consume you with lust,
And eat till we’re stuffed
Oh, tender asparagus.

But, let us discuss
Your embarrassing minus
Oh scrumptious
Verdant asparagus.

You make us blush
And quick to flush
Oh, stinky, noxious
Asparagus.

Still, eat you we must!
To smells we’ll adjust,
‘Cuz your bounty is lush
Oh delicious, malodorous asparagus!

Spears in the Sod — Asparagus … An Ode to Asparagus
Third place:

By Paula K. Darling

It seems it was lurking beneath the surface, seldom seen … and never heard …
But when I’d least expected, there it was … doing a feat that seemed absurd!
A tender tendril … tiny, tentative … still it tried, and achieved its worthy goal …
This nearly magic trick of nature … it speared through hard sod, still iron cold!
Like a hot poker burns through steel, it burrowed its say, no stopping between …
And feeling the warmth of the sun upon it … Shot straight up, and turned to green!
What once was white, tan, and purple … bits of color, that were varied, otherwise …
Saw the sun and changed its mind … Then changed its color, and changed its size!
Reaching t’ward the warmth or springtime, and taking in the goodness there …
It ripened quickly … and it took on flavor .. then, offered its self for table fare.

A friendly Stalk … Oh, brave small tendril, from a bed of death … you rise.
Though it looks like you’re not living for most of the year, In our eyes … We see
Now that you’re only sleeping! Dreaming of what you might become … and be.
How I wish that I could change … the things in my life … that easily!
Your life is short, your life is cut off … but it is always freely, given away.
Perhaps the lesson of your life is this … “To Live our Life like it’s Our last Day!” …
And to give away what we can not keep, for it is transient … at the best!
For like the tender asparagus stalk … in your sod bed, soon you’ll rest!
Teach me, Oh little Asparagus! … and I will listen … let me know your secret ways …
Oh, what’s that? He tells me just to listen … to the Heavenly Maker, who holds our days.

Thomas Lynch reads at Glen Lake Library

Thursday, May 5th, 2011

From staff reports

Author Thomas Lynch will read from his latest book Apparition and Late Fictions, on Wednesday, May 18th at 7 p.m., at the Glen Lake Community Library in Empire. This collection of short stories was selected as a 2011 Michigan Notable Book by the Library of Michigan. Mr. Lynch will be joined by his friend and mentor, the poet Michael Heffernan. For more information, contact the library at (231) 326-5361, or check their website at www.glenlakelibrary.net.

Artists in Residence flock to the north country

Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011

Over the years, the Glen Arbor Sun has featured plenty of artists in residence living in our midst while hosted by organizations such as the Glen Arbor Art Association and the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Their work ranges from essays (Jan Shoemaker, 2009) to mixed media drawings (Steven Matthew Brown, 2004). And the art they generate truly enriches our rural community.

Mlive.com published a wonderful story on Sunday by our friend Kim Schneider, titled “State, national parks offer programs for artists”, which highlights what the local branch of the National Park service has contributed to our thriving local art scene:


The yearning to steal away to an isolated, untouched place of beauty to write poetry or or paint or dance, is so universal it’s almost become cliche.

But those who have managed to do these activities say they can’t recommend enough the chance to be immersed in nature, to capture slight changes in the light on the landscape, perhaps even witness the birth of a baby moose.

An affordable place to be creative is offered through artist-in-residency programs at many state and national parks.

Some 30 national and many state parks, including several in Michigan, offer residencies that supply free lodging for selected artists, some for a few days and others for several weeks. The term “artist” is broadly defined to include visual artists, writers, performers, composers, photographers, filmmakers and dancers. Mount Rushmore only accepts applications from sculptors who can carve in stone (ability to capture presidential likenesses not specified).

In Michigan, opportunities in two of four parks offering the program remain this year, while the year’s application deadline has passed for the others. The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in Empire is taking applications through April 15 for two-dimensional visual artists, photographers, sculptors, writers and composers for the two-to-three week residency stays in September or October in a park cabin.

The program at Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park in the western Upper Peninsula is accepting applications until the end of March. There, artist selection is based on both ability to relate the park to others through an art medium and ability to reside in a wilderness environment (ie: pumping your own water and using a pit toilet). Most programs require the donation of a piece of completed artwork to the park and at least one public presentation.

Interacting with the public was a residency highlight for Kaye Krapohl, a Traverse City-based landscape painter and former artist-in-residence who focused her work on capturing patterns and light on the diverse landscape of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

Krapohl says she would bring an extra sketchpad along when she painted on beautiful overlooks so that anyone so inspired could join her and keep a visual journal of their travels. She remembers the little girl who painted with her while her parents hiked, “I’d say listen to the trees,” Krapohl said, and she would say, “‘It does sound like yellow!’”

Artists often get the chance to witness beauty and miracles. During his stay on Isle Royale in 1994, for example, artist Gendron Jensen came upon a moose giving birth to a cinnamon-colored calf. His resulting work went on to tour at exhibits in Minneapolis, Sante Fe, N.M., and Bar Harbor, Maine.

The way he became connected to the natural world surprised Bill Lathrop, a former artist-in-residence at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Lathrop shares his residency-inspired paintings and also the journal he wrote while painting at Pictured Rocks on his website: wlathrop.com/prjournal.

“My senses became more attuned, my perception clearer,” he wrote, “and I developed a deep sense of wonder and amazement at the small and large miracles around me. How large boulders came to rest where they lay, how a birch woods evolves into hardwood, or how certain mushrooms catch rainwater.”

Lathrop completed 20 plein air paintings during his residency, but he also saw the work as a way to support the National Park Service and the preservation of the natural world. The work of visual artists was given much of the credit for the initial creation of the National Park system, said Gregg Bruff, chief of heritage education at Pictured Rocks. Among those credited for creating demand to preserve wild places was artist Thomas Moran, who made sketches of the Pictured Rocks region in 1860, long before it was a park, he said.

Those who don’t qualify for a fellowship but want to see what art the park stays have inspired can find galleries of work by former artists in residence at the headquarters building in Pictured Rocks and in visitors centers there, on a rotating basis. The book “The Island Within Us,” compiles the work of 34 former artists-in-residence at Isle Royale, each piece reflecting the ability to deal with solitude, simplicity and wild beauty.

Those who want to be hands-on in capturing nature visually, but are more novice than expert, can start by taking a class in a Michigan state or national park.

The photography team of Mark Carlson and Bob Grzesiak offers a Spring Dunes Eco-Photo Tour, based at the Homestead Resort in Glen Arbor but featuring the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, May 6-8. A three-day “Superior Spring” eco-photo tour is May 18-22 in the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore area in Munising. For more information, go to markscarlson.com/glpt, or e-mail the photographers at info@greatlakesphototours.com.

Those looking to use paint as a medium should check out the classes offered by the Glen Arbor Art Association. This summer’s lineup includes several on-site painting classes within the National Lakeshore, including plein air painting, journal drawing and capturing the emotion of a scene. For more, visit glenarborart.org, or call (231) 334-6112.

To find a list of national park residency offerings, go to: nps.gov/archive/volunteer/air.htm. Applicants for the Sleeping Bear Dunes program can visit nps.gov/slbe/parkmgmt/artistinresidence.htm, call (231) 326-5134 or e-mail Lisa Myers at lisa_myers@nps.gov. More information on 2011 spring, summer, fall and 2012 winter residencies in the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park can be found at porkies.org/artist.html.

Sap dripping’ goodness: here comes Spring

Sunday, March 20th, 2011

Forest Rebecca Olson enjoyed an early spring day the right way in northern Michigan — by tapping a Maple tree and enjoying the sap from which we make maple syrup. In succession, the flowers bloomed, the snow began to melt, the chickens came out to play, and her daughter Roen greeted the farm animals.

Pet rooster

Monday, January 24th, 2011

By Mary Sharry
Sun contributor

City chickens may be a new thing now, but in the city of my childhood, Toledo, Ohio, there was nothing unusual about raising backyard hens, roosters or even rabbits for that matter. Times then, as now, were lean and tight, and people were just beginning to rise up out of the dire straits of near poverty; so raising chickens for their eggs or a Sunday dinner, or rabbits for Saturday night stew, helped nourish many families.

In that city, avenues ran in one direction, intersected by the more important boulevards; the roadways that were called drives were older and paved in brick and were intersected by streets where squalor lived – derelict bars, pawn shops and neglected houses with dirt front yards where dogs were kept on chains wound around wooden posts. The dogs barked and snarled at passers-by. Here was Central Avenue, there Collingwood Blvd. My mother and father and I lived on Milburn Avenue, which ended at Old Orchard Park through which my mother walked every morning on her way home from her night shift job in the nursery at Toledo Hospital.

The park was huge with playgrounds and picnic tables throughout, and a ringed pony-ride, which I loved to watch, but where on the day my mother lifted me onto the leather saddle I shrieked in fear. “Get me down. Get me down.” The patient ponies walked dumbly, nose to rump, around their tethered circle which smelled of manure and hay. In that park in the wintertime a great sledding hill captured the laughter and energies of children and adults; and in the spring older children, boys mostly, climbed a stone wall from which grew ivies and mosses. Tall elms arched overhead presenting a cathedral-like sanctuary.

From uptown to downtown, red brick buildings mingled with old granite structures, and city buses traveled the worn brick road past the Willis Overland factory where rows of drab green Army jeeps stood waiting for rail shipment. The railroad ties were intersected by streetcar rails; and above the street there ran a web of wires which provided the current for both the streetcars and trolley buses.

Smokestacks belched charcoal plumes over the city, and the noxious vapors drifted above the Maumee River all the way out Anthony Wayne Trail to the Toledo Zoo. Here, in cages, were the lions and tigers and bears that stalked my bad dreams. The smell of animal urine seeped into the air and even my mouth, as the odor permeated the shells of salt-roasted peanuts, tainting each bite.

My father was acquainted with the keeper of the primate house, and so we were invited into the nursery where I got to hold an infant orangutan. This small creature’s rust-colored hair stuck out at angles atop her head. She grasped my finger and gazed at me with what seemed an expression of wonder. Her eyes glistened like buttons made of obsidian. I’d wanted a pet so badly and wished we could have taken her home, which, of course, was out of the question.

After the day at the zoo, we rode home on the Old Orchard bus. I dozed. My father woke me when we arrived at the stop at the end of our alley. On the walk home our feet crunched over the cinders that people threw out whenever they cleaned their coal furnaces. We, too, heated our small house with coal. In the springtime, with buckets of hot, soapy Spic and Span, my mother would wash away the dirt and soot that had collected on the walls during the winter months.

There was our coal bin in a corner of our damp, dark cellar. A small, rectangular window cast a slant of light revealing cracks in the concrete walls. Each fall a noisy, red dump truck from the coal company backed over our front yard. A chute was placed through the narrow window and coal was shoveled from the truck onto the chute; thick chunks rolled and tumbled through the opening to the bin below. The man who delivered the coal wore sooty overalls. Even his face was smudged, and his eyes, the whites more red than white, peered out at me. I was afraid to look back at him, but I loved the thundering rumble of the coal.

My father’s shovel scraped against the coal bin floor as he filled the scuttle and loaded the furnace, its door clanging shut when he was finished. There came the day, though, when the natural gas line came to our neighborhood and we abandoned the coal furnace for a new gas-fired one. This is where the rooster comes in.

Late in the following spring my parents swept and scoured the old coal bin, and one day they uncrated a red rooster down there in that dank room. Hooray! A pet, for me, I thought.

From the overhead light I watched the bird peck at the corn my mother had placed in a dish for him alongside a water bowl. His shining eye glanced at me and he tilted back his cock-comb head when he swallowed. My parents assigned to me the task of feeding him. I cooed and talked to him and told him how pretty he was. He seemed to agree and strutted about the enclosure, stretching his scaly legs. I made it a point to push open and scrub clean the small window up near the ceiling so that in his cell my rooster could enjoy some daylight and fresh air.

My parents were not aware of this bird’s pet status in my mind. I named him Red and fed him from my bare hand although I’d been warned not to as he might peck, but peck or scratch, he never did. He even let me stroke his beautiful tail feathers as he ate. Ah! I loved that gorgeous bird. Red!

In our neighborhood, on thirty-foot lots, our houses were so close together that you could touch fingers, if the person next door stuck their arm out through a window and you did the same. That summer, through the open windows, surely, I thought, the neighbors must enjoy Red’s cock-a-doodle-doo, especially in the morning.

If our house, a bungalow, was small, the kitchen, although it had two windows, was tiny. When I washed dishes, a task I enjoyed, I could look out over the sink and view the neighbor’s back porch, which was painted yellow and lined with pots of red geraniums. The other window in our kitchen looked out to a smooth-barked cherry tree. When warm, humid air drove us outside we sat beneath that tree and ate our meals at the sturdy plank table my father had built along with benches on either side.

In those lean times the gift of a live chicken was welcomed. Just once I sat there at the table under the tree and watched while my father held a hen down on an old tree stump. Under my father’s strong hand the bird lay silent while he decapitated it with one swift chop of his hatchet. Awed and repulsed, I didn’t look away. The headless body staggered about the yard, the white feathers tinged with bright blood. I couldn’t bear to watch another slaughter, even though I would enjoy the dinner my mother cooked up – stewed chicken with dumplings.

The kitchen was too small for a regular table and chairs, but beneath the window facing the cherry tree there was a folding table. You lifted the hinged top and folded out a hinged section of wood on which the surface rested. The table top was painted enamel white, the folding support, blue. It was there at the kitchen table that my mother would clean the chicken, the smelly innards going into a bucket for disposal. “Pee-e-ewe,” I’d wail. She would tell me to leave the room if I couldn’t stand to watch. Well, I liked to eat my lunch there, and dressing the chicken was most unappetizing.

There were apple trees growing along our alley, and when no one was looking, my mother would send me out to pick up the apples that had fallen to the ground. She made apple sandwiches in a little iron toaster which she held over the open flame of our stove. Sliced apples, cinnamon, brown sugar, and oleo were placed between two slices of stale bread. The lid on the toaster was closed and the exposed crusts cut off. Apple-cinnamon steam spewed from around the edges. My mother brought in two chairs from the dining room and we played anagrams or hangman while we ate the sandwiches. The table creaked when I raised myself on my elbows to rearrange a word or add a letter. In the cellar down below, Red pecked at his corn-filled dish.

One afternoon when I came home from school my mother was washing the top of the kitchen table. She wrung her dish rag in a pan of hot, soapy Fels Naptha water and rubbed in circles over the white table. A kettle bubbled and boiled on the stove. The steamy aroma of chicken, rosemary, onion and celery wafted from the pot. I went out to play until it was time for supper.

Twilight came earlier each day. It was almost dark by the time I was called in to eat. Light from the overhead kitchen lamp spilled through the doorway and into our small dining room. My mother always made sure an ironed tablecloth covered the maple dining table. She had taught me how to arrange the forks on the left, knives and spoons on the right, and set out the elegant cut glass cream and sugar bowl, a wedding gift from her parents.

I set the table and took my place and watched as my father lit two tall candles. They flickered and glowed across the table and made the sugar and creamer sparkle. A bowl of mashed potatoes was already on the table along with a boat of gravy. My father sat across from me and when my mother carried in the steaming platter of chicken pieces he made smacking noises with his lips. Mashed potatoes were my favorite food, but not gravy. For some reason my father insisted, in spite of my protests, that I needed gravy on my potatoes. He made a well with the gravy ladle, and the golden liquid filled and flowed like lava from the mound of potatoes. My potatoes were ruined, I said; but to make up for my disappointment my mother placed a plump drumstick on my plate. I bent forward and inhaled the wonderful, warm aroma.

While I poked around at my potatoes with my fork, trying to gather a pure, gravy-free portion, my father began to chew on a piece of meat from his plate. He chewed and he chewed, and then he laid his fork down and said that was the last time we’d raise a rooster, even if it was a gift. My chair fell over when I pushed myself away from that table.

Down there in the basement, where earlier in the day Red had scattered his dried corn kernels, I cried the tears of anger. The water dish was gone and so was Red’s food bowl. From overhead I could hear my parents’ voices, their footsteps coming down the stairs.

What hath the wind brought?

Friday, October 29th, 2010

We survived the strongest storm ever to hit the continental United States!

By Jacob Wheeler

Sun editor

“Hell hath’ no fury like a Great Lakes fall storm” — Weather historian William R. Deedler, on the Great Lakes white hurricane of November 1913.

What to make of the vicious wind storm this week that knocked trees through houses and garages, relieved the forests of their autumn leaves, and sent folks without electricity scurrying to the Leelanau Coffee Roasters and Art’s Tavern in Glen Arbor, for wireless Internet and food?

A lesson from Mother Nature that man, if he stands alone, is doomed? (When Glen Arbor’s power returned Tuesday evening, the town opened doors to its neighbors in Empire, which remained in the dark for another 24 hours.) Foreshadowing of another storm on Tuesday, when Americans vote in the midterm elections and — if the mainstream media has it right — will rush the kitchen, fire the chefs, dump out the giant vat of slow-cooking soup, and start over again? Or was this storm just a natural, if noisy, step in the transition from autumn to winter?

Better find your hats and gloves, folks. The Old Man may arrive early this year.

The windstorm that hit Leelanau County on Tuesday, Oct. 26, rivaled the pressure of tropical storms, according to Dave Lawrence, a National Weather Service meteorologist in Gaylord. The storm’s intensity rivaled, and may have surpassed, the winds that doomed the famed Edmund Fitzgerald in 1975 in Lake Superior. In fact, “Chiclone of 2010” (named for the beating it dealt the Windy City) boasted the lowest atmospheric pressure readings ever measured anywhere in the continental United States, according to Weather Underground — making the storm more intense than the Great Blizzard of 1978, the Armistice Day Blizzard of 1940, the November storm of 1998, the White Hurricane of 1913 which inspired Deedler’s above quote, and the Edmund Fitzgerald storm of 1975.

According to the Traverse City Record-Eagle, gusts on Tuesday reached 62 miles per hour in Traverse City and 72 mph in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Waves in the middle of Lake Michigan may have topped 20 feet. Nearly 100,000 Consumers Energy customers along the Lake Michigan shoreline lost power, including 2,651 here in Leelanau County, 1,052 in Benzie County and 480 in Grand Traverse County.

And through it all, Keenan May, Lindsay Simmons, and Elias Ridley went surfing at Sleeping Bear Point!

“I’ve been surfing all week,” bragged Ridley, the buff Ann Arbor native who now calls Empire home. “So while everyone I know is complaining about the cold, awful weather, I’ve been stoked out of my head … People who see us going out either wish us luck and to be safe, or exclaim that ‘I’m crazy’ … probably both, on one level or another.”

Does extreme weather turn people mad? Perhaps it’s worth considering author Joan Didion’s words about the fabled Santa Ana wind off the Pacific Ocean every fall that brings wildfires to Southern California and makes people in Los Angeles do crazy things. In Slouching Towards Bethlehem, Didion called this “the season of suicide and divorce and prickly dread, wherever the wind blows.” She tells how “the Indians would throw themselves into the sea when the wind blew.” On nights of a Santa Ana wind, Didion writes, “every booze party ends in a fight” and “meek little wives feel the edge of the carving knife and study their husbands’ necks.”

We Midwesterners may not be driven to such impulses, but the storm proved murderous for the wildlife. A dead seagull and a dead duck were seen lying near each other on the beach in Leland, apparently after nosediving into the sand. Meanwhile, the Record-Eagle reported that rescue crews in nearby Northport helped a woman who was trapped in her trailer by downed power lines.

Norm Wheeler, English and astronomy teacher at The Leelanau School, knew the storm was coming. Looking out from the school’s Observatory on the beach, Wheeler saw a flat, nervous Sleeping Bear Bay Tuesday morning with the wind picking up out of the south. By the afternoon it was coming from the southwest, and the whole bay had become whitecaps and froth. Mini-waterspouts formed between Glen Arbor and North Manitou Island, even as the sun began to shine. “When the sun shines and there’s that much spray above the water, you get sundogs, or rainbow patches at right angles from sun. I saw a sundog out toward Sleeping Bear Point and a sundog toward North Manitou.” By Tuesday evening the wind was howling and rocking the Observatory.

Both Glen Arbor and Empire lost electricity in the afternoon, and so many people gathered for dinner at Art’s, which has a generator, that there was half-hour wait to be seated. At 6 p.m. on Tuesday the power returned in Glen Arbor, and the Western Avenue Grill opened across the street — a relief to the hungry crowd.

In Frankfort, crowds gathered Tuesday and Wednesday to watch giant wind-whipped waves smash into the lighthouses on the town’s piers. In nearby Elberta, a house reportedly crumbled in two. Benzie County lost power, but Maggie Lonero’s lights stayed on because she has solar power (there must be a lesson there).

Check out this video by Ken Scott of the wind and waves bashing into the Frankfort pier:

In Traverse City, Cheyenne Dutcher was relieved that the Tall Ship Manitou had been moved to its winter dock the day before the storm hit. “She is now crushing the dock, but there’s nothing I can do,” lamented Dutcher, one of the Tall Ship’s captains. “At least she won’t go anywhere.” Trees and branches lay strewn over photographer John Robert Williams’ yard. He estimated he’d need an entire day just to clear the yard. Meanwhile, high school Spanish teacher Andy Baumann sat on his couch, reading a Bill Bryson book, by firelight.

Here in Glen Arbor, a tree busted out webpage designer Molly Melin’s window while she was on the couch reading to her daughter, Ada. Melin can tell the story with varying degrees of drama. Glen Arbor Bed & Breakfast innkeepers Jeff and Katie Rabidoux worried about a big dead tree that stood dangerously close to their home, but the storm miraculously dropped it down safer than any chainsaw could have — parallel to the house and facing the driveway. The Budingers weren’t so lucky. Dick and Gay heard something hit their garage the other night. They went outside and saw two holes in the roof, and an opening in the tree canopy with a view clear to the sky. Over at Glen Lake School, fourth grade teacher Cynthia Hollenbeck’s students were distracted, looking wild-eyed out the window at every gust of wind, she said, “instead of concentrating on my fascinating tricks to learn their times-tables.”

On Tuesday night a fire truck parked at the Narrow’s Deli south of the Glen Lakes indicated that the stretch of M-22 south of Little Glen Lake was closed. A tree had fallen and taken down power lines. An electricity poll near the Manor on Glen Lake was reportedly being replaced as well.

The storm knocked out power at The Leelanau School on Tuesday, and it wasn’t restored until Thursday afternoon. As they may have done in the olden days, the boarding school’s students took buckets of water from the Crystal River to flush their toilets Tuesday night. They used porta-potties Wednesday and Thursday. In the evenings they studied in the dining hall under halogen light bulbs that were hooked up to a generator. Leelanau School President Matt Ralston came to the Leelanau Coffee Roasters — which was swarming with laptop-toters — to email parents of students and let them know to communicate via cellular phone. Ironically, Glen Arbor’s cell tower wasn’t functioning either Tuesday.

Those in Empire without power stayed with friends or family in Glen Arbor whose electricity returned Tuesday evening: Dan and Anne Shoup brought their kids to stay with “Uncle Mike” Buhler, co-owner of the Leelanau Coffee Roasters and co-editor of the Glen Arbor Sun; Colleen Macaddino hosted her daughter Kelly and grandkids. Meanwhile, Erik Peterson borrowed his landlord’s chainsaw early Wednesday morning so that he could remove a tree that had fallen on Echo Valley Road and get to work.

On his drive home from Traverse City late Wednesday night, Norm Wheeler saw 14 Consumers Power bucket trucks driving east on M-72 after restoring power here in the county. They were back on Thursday, parked by the dozen behind Boone Docks in Glen Arbor.

The power returned to Empire at 9 p.m. on Wednesday night. Mimi Wheeler had lost two days of production at Grocers Daughter Chocolate, and she had plenty of orders to fill. So her work day began at 10 p.m. and lasted until 3:30 a.m. Meanwhile, once the storm was over, Norm assessed that the forests had almost completely lost their leaves, except for some oak trees down by the lakeshore. Winter, it seemed, was now imminent.

But every great storm brings a time for reflection. Writer Anne-Marie Oomen lost her father this summer, and this week she heard John’s footsteps in the forest outside of Empire. Here are her words:

“This is the preamble for the storm: On Sunday I woke to find the understory had turned golden, a phenomenon I love more than the big treetop show for both subtlety and metaphor. An understory is often the golden story, don’t you think? The canopy had fallen, and the glow from the ground was dappled with these last bright snips. The low trees were still freckled with light, but close to the earth. It was warm and humid and still that day, a sure sign the weather would change. But Sunday, those leaves were damp, so rather than the crackling chorus, the sounds were muted. I remembered then: these were my father’s favorite autumn days; these days of golden understory when he could walk in the woods without alerting the creatures. In his last years, he rarely hunted but went out anyway into that singular light, to walk and watch and wait in the understory. Perhaps he became part of the understory.

For the next two days, as the storm approached from the Midwest, I heard his footsteps in our woods, the almost sound on wet leaves. Then Tuesday, the bottom dropped out of the barometer, and then the wind drowned out everything but its own sound, and then the power gone and the nights dark with howling. Now even the golden understory is gone. I loved the preamble to the storm, and then the storm itself — for the metaphor of course.”

Michigan: The Land of Plenty

Thursday, September 16th, 2010

By Norm Wheeler
Sun editor

Some of my relatives west of Shelby, in Oceana County, recently had a yard sale, and my mother, Anna Jean Wheeler, scored an old book there about Michigan that used to belong to my grandfather, Neil Wheeler. Neil grew up on a farm east of Hart. His sister Emma had polio, so he carried her on his back quite a distance to their country school. (She later attended college, became an attorney, and practiced law in Washington, D.C.)

Neil Wheeler walked the country roads as a young man selling life insurance to farmer’s wives. (“What if that mule he’s plowing with kicks old Hiram and kills him — what are you gonna do then?”) He later had an insurance and real estate office along with my father, Robert Wheeler, in downtown Shelby, and Neil spent two years as a member of the Michigan legislature. I still have the old swivel chair and the spittoon he brought back from Lansing when his two-year term was over (he didn’t seek re-election).

He loved Oceana County, loved driving the country roads, and he could tell you who owned every farm and acre. Neil Wheeler was one of the founders of the Shelby State Bank, and he was one of the first people to drill for oil along the shore of Lake Michigan (just south of the Little Point Sauble lighthouse, the westernmost point of the lower peninsula).

This old paperbound book entitled Michigan: The Land of Plenty, was published by the Public Domain Commission and Immigration Commission in June 1914, to promote the Agricultural, Horticultural and Industrial Advantages of the state. In the Forward, Mr. Augustus C. Carton, Commissioner of Immigration, and Glen R. Munshaw, Deputy Commissioner of Immigration, write that it is their duty to:

“collect and compile information relative to the advantages and opportunities afforded by this state to the farmer; the merchant; the manufacturer; the home and pleasure seeker; and to distribute the information. First, to stimulate Michigan’s own people to a deeper appreciation of the state in which they live and to encourage a greater degree of agricultural development by calling their attention to the opportunities and possibilities afforded by their home state, and Second, to encourage the settlement upon Michigan’s agricultural lands by people from the neighboring states and Canada, and by intelligent rural immigrants from Central and Northern Europe. Michigan invites inspection and need make no extravagant claims to establish the fact that it offers to the farmer, the homeseeker and manufacturer opportunities unsurpassed by any other state in the Union.”

(… intelligent rural immigrants from Central and Northern Europe!)

A brief history of the state’s early development follows, and then many great black & white pictures show lakes, rivers, homesteads, summer cottages, long stringers of trout, and the campuses of the University in Ann Arbor, the Agricultural College in East Lansing, the College of Mines in Houghton, and the Normal Schools in Marquette, Mt. Pleasant, Ypsilanti and Kalamazoo. Following many pages about the physiography, soils and minerals in the state, and the agricultural opportunities, there are short summaries about each county. Here is what the book says about Leelanau County:

“Leelanau County was laid out in 1840 and was organized in 1863. The name — according to an Indian legend — means “Delight of Life.” The total land area of the county is 220,233.58 acres, of which about 160,000 acres are in good farms. The population is 10,608 (1910 census). The valuation of taxable property as estimated by the State Board of Tax Commissioners in 1911 is $6,388,512. There are 61 schools, supplying positions for 84 teachers, and an enrollment of 2,385 students. The county has 5 banks and 3 weekly newspapers, also telegraph, telephone and rural mail service. Leland is the county seat and has a population of about 400. It is located at the mouth of Leelanau river, the outlet of Lake Leelanau, on the west shore of the peninsula forming Leelanau county, 25 miles northwest of Traverse City, and 4.5 north of Provemont, its nearest railroad point. There are Lutheran and Methodist churches, and a weekly newspaper is published. Leland has become popular as an ideal summer resort. Empire, the largest town in the county, has about 650 inhabitants. It is located on the shore of Lake Michigan and on the Manistee and Northeastern Railroad, 28 miles southwest of Leland and about the same distance from Traverse City. It has Catholic and Methodist churches, a bank and a weekly newspaper. Other towns of the county are Northport, (pop. 600), and Suttons Bay, (pop. 600).

(Lots of interesting history books full of old tales of Leelanau County and of Michigan can also be found at the Leelanau Historical Museum in Leland (231-256-7475) and the Empire Area Museum (231-326-5568 or 231-326-5519). Call for fall hours.)

The late poet Max Ellison — founder of the Stone Circle near Elk Rapids — sums it up in his poem:

Michigan My Michigan

He spread a bolt of pineland beneath a canopy of blue,
Then appliquéd the rivers with his hand.
He mixed a dream with a vision for a host of pioneers
Who had started out to settle on the land.
He took the thunder from the mountains, the west wind from the plains,
The glory from the sunset, and it’s true,
He blended in the music the pine tree always sings when it’s summer
And the wind is passing through.
He hollowed out some valleys, spread some mirrors down for lakes,
Mixed some iron and some copper with the sand.
But he couldn’t call it Eden, he had used that name before,
Then an Indian whispered:
“Call it Mich-i-gan, Mich-i-gan, Michigan!”

Leelanau Restaurant Guide
Leelanau Lodging Guide
Leelanau Shopping Guide
Leelanau Real Estate Guide
Leelanau Recreation Guide